City Eating

Hungry? Try Puji Puji’s recipe for Malaysian chicken satay

If you can’t wait for the Malaysian night market in London this September, give this simple but delicious recipe a try at home. It’s a traditional recipe for one of Malaysia’s most popular dishes and was sent in by Azi Duxbury-Campbell, owner of the excellent Puji Puji in Dalston. At the busy night markets in Malaysia, you’ll find hawkers selling hot skewers of beef, goat, chicken and pork, all marinated in intense spice pastes and grilled to smoky perfection. Puji Puji’s chicken satay is perfect on the barbeque or grilled in the oven for a quick and healthy meal. The peanut sauce is sweet and not too spicy so even kids unused to chilli heat can enjoy it.

Malaysian chicken satay with peanut sauce

Ingredients: 1.5 kg chicken (deboned breast or thigh meat),  1 tsp  ground cumin, 100g  garlic, 100g  shallot, 1 tsp ground coriander, 3 tbs turmeric powder, 400g sugar, 500g lemongrass, salt to taste.

For the sauce: 50g shallots, 50g garlic, 50g lemongrass, 500g roasted peanuts (crushed), 1 tsp chilli powder, 4 tbsp cooking oil, 900ml water, 100g sugar (use palm sugar if you can), 2 tsp salt.

1) Thinly slice the chicken meat and set aside. Next, blend the shallots, coriander, cumin, garlic, and lemongrass. Mix in the sugar, tumeric powder and salt to taste. Marinate the chicken in the mixture for at least two hours, or overnight in the fridge for maximum flavour if you have time.

2) Soak some wooden skewers in water to prevent them from burning, then thread the chicken on to them. If you are using bitesize pieces, rather than strips, for kid-friendly eating - be  careful not to overload the skewers.

3) Grill on the barbeque, constantly sprinkling cooking oil over the meat using a stalk of crushed lemongrass. When the chicken is a smoky golden brown colour on the outside cooked all the way through, they are done. (Alternatively, grill on a tinfoil-lined baking tray in the oven).

4) To make the sauce, blend the shallots, garlic and lemongrass. Heat a little groundnut oil in a shallow saucepan and fry the mixture until fragrant. Add the chilli powder, sugar, salt, water and crushed peanuts. Simmer for 30 minutes until the sauce is thick enough for dipping.

You can serve the satay skewers as a starter or with a fried rice dish like nasi goreng, but we like them on their own with some slices of red onion and cucumber.

You can try more authentic Malaysian dishes at Puji Puji or at one of the other Malaysian restaurants in London.

Trafalgar Square To Host Malaysian Night Market

On Friday 24th September, London’s Trafalgar Square will be transformed into a bustling night market to celebrate the vibrant food and culture of Malaysia. The free event is one of the highlights of the year long Malaysia Kitchen campaign which aims to educate British consumers about the world of Malaysian cuisine.

For one night only, foodies can feast on Malaysian specialties like slow-cooked beef rendang, nasi goreng, spicy laksa and freshly grilled satay skewers. As many as 20 Malaysian restaurants will operate their  own individual stalls showcasing signature street food inspired dishes, just like the busy night stalls in Penang. Visitors will be able to buy traditional Malaysian drinks and cakes as well as authentic herbs, spices, pastes and sauces to help recreate Malay dishes at home.

The market will also include fresh juice and ‘teh tarik’ (sweet Malaysian tea) stands, as well as traditional art and craft stalls. A central stage will host music and dance performances and would-be globe-trotters can pick up travel info at the Tourism Malaysia booth.

Can’t wait until September? Check out our list of Malaysian restaurants in London and sign up for the Malaysia Kitchen dining card - it’s free and guarantees some impressive discounts when you dine at participating restaurants like Satay House, Matahari, and Melur. They’ve also got some great recipes on site from celeb chefs like Atul Kochhar and Rick Stein and restaurants like 54 and Awana.

If you fancy a free feast next Thursday (26th August), book a table for lunch or dinner at 54 in Farringdon where Malaysia Kitchen will be hosting a free curry tasting. Diners will be invited to sample delicious curries from four top Malaysian restaurants and then score each dish so Malaysia Kitchen can crown a curry champion. To make a reservation, call 07500 272 734 or email reservations@54farringdon.com.

Now Open: Shaka Zulu - Bling And Bobotie In Camden Town

THE LOWDOWN: After two months of false starts and delays, Shaka Zulu has finally opened its doors at the Stables Market in Camden. The £5.5m project includes a Cape Town inspired seafood and oyster bar, a huge African themed dining room and a cocktail lounge-bar. It has been blessed by King Goodwill Zwelithini, ruler of the Zulu nation, and promises to put its neighbour – Gilgamesh – in the shade for quite some time. If the bling interior feels a bit decadent, you might be pleased to know that the 750-seater restaurant has pledged £1 from every meal to Education Africa – a charity that helps to provide schooling and healthcare.

THE LOOK: Spread over two floors and covering 27,000 square feet, this is a monster of a restaurant. In a similar style to Gilgamesh, there are 60ft carved wooden murals covering every inch of the walls and ceiling, alongside curved banquettes, patterned fabrics and tribal artworks. A 30ft bronze statue stands guard at the entrance and in the restaurant there are Swarovski crystal leopards, open flame grills and live floor shows scheduled throughout the evening. It might not be subtle but it is visually impressive.

 

THE FOOD: At the seafood bar, diners can stick to classics like oysters and dressed crab or try the more interesting options like Rooibos tea smoked salmon and seared ostrich carpaccio. From the braai – a traditional Saffa grill – carnivores can tuck into game meats such as kudu and Springbok from Namibia, as well as authentic South African specialties like bobotie, sosaties and Boerewors. One of executive chef Barry Vera’s signature dishes will be the 7-hour spit roast dorper lamb with cumin salt, new season garlic and chakalaka – a fiery vegetable relish that originated in the townships of Johannesburg. There are no prices on the online menus at this stage but we’re willing to bet that dinner at Shaka Zulu won’t come cheap.

THE DRINKS: The Saffa theme extends to the bar offerings with an impressive list of zulu-themed cocktails and the UK’s largest South African wine list. ‘Drinking’ tables can be reserved but priority is given to diners and King’s Club members (lifetime membership £300). We like the sound of the £9 ‘Sufrica’ – a blend of Absolut Citron vodka, kumquats, natural honey and lemon, served long over crushed ice. There are shared cocktails too but at £25 for two and £50 for four people, these are strictly for high rollers only.

THE VERDICT: Time will tell. The full-on décor, pricey drinks and meaty menu might not be to everyone’s taste but there is definitely room in Camden for something a little different. We’ll be paying a visit soon but until then, keep your eye on London’s food bloggers who will be attending the launch party for a sneak preview. Don’t forget to write a review if you get there before we do!

Dates For Your Diary: Japanese Week At William Curley

Chocolate lovers will already be familiar with William Curley, the award-winning British chocolatier who now has two shops in ultra-chic corners of London. His wife Suzue is also an exceptionally talented patissier who moved from Osaka to London in 1996 to train at Le Cordon Bleu and work at Claridge’s and The Savoy.

This September, in celebration of Suzue’s Japanese heritage, William Curley’s Belgravia shop will be hosting ten days of Japanese-inspired events, tastings and masterclasses. The regular Sea Salt Caramel and Truffle   weekend courses will be replaced by lessons in the art of Japanese influenced chocolates like the Toasted Sesame Couture Chocolate and the Yamazaki Whiskey Truffle. Guests will also have an opportunity to taste and learn about the different Japanese ingredients William uses in his chocolates. (Dates: 25th/26th September, 2nd/3rd October. £75 per person).

On September 29th, William will host a Japanese tea and chocolate pairing event with John Kennedy from Teasmith. Guests will be greeted on arrival with an Oolong Tea Champagne Cocktail and homemade savoury canapes and then sample eight Japanese teas paired with eight Japanese inspired chocolates and a delicious patisserie to end the evening. (£55 per person.)

If you prefer booze to tea, book a place at the sake tasting event on September 30th where sake expert Gilbert Winfield will be matching six different sakes to William’s chocolates. Because of its unique 'umami enhancing' properties, and low acidity, sake is one of best drinks to pair with chocolate, and the distinctive delicate flavours of the chosen sakes are designed to compliment the smooth richness of William's confections. Guests will enjoy a glass of Champagne and Japanese inspired canapés on arrival. To finish there will be another Japanese speciality, Shiraume Umeshu, a plum infused liqueur. (£55 per person.) For bookings and availability, please contact: Caroline@williamcurley.co.uk

If you can’t make the September dates, keep an afternoon free between October 11th and 17th. For one week only – National Chocolate Week, of course – the lovely tea room at Claridge’s will be serving an exclusive William Curley Chocolate Afternoon Tea. There will be plenty of tastings and masterclasses going on as well so stay tuned for more details or sign up to the newsletter via the website.

Dishoom: Fast Food With Soul At London's First Bombay Cafe

THE LOWDOWN: Inspired by the 'Bombay cafes' opened by Persian immigrants in what is now Mumbai, Dishoom is already a popular addition to St Martin’s Courtyard. Just a stones throw from Leicester Square, it’s sandwiched between Jamie’s Italian and Cantina Laredo and offers an all-day menu of Indian snacks.

THE LOOK: In an area dominated by faceless chains, Dishoom stands out as a seriously good-looking space. With its mix of dark wood, mirrors and monochrome floor tiles, it’s more Bombay brasserie than café and the colour scheme is a muted blend of greys, browns and pale blue. Designer Afroditi Krassa has injected plenty of personality with colourful Bollywood posters and low-hanging lighting but the main attraction is the busy open kitchen where smartly-attired chefs prepare roomali rotis to order. The attention to detail extends to the rather lovely toilets where there are quirky mirrors, incense and vintage medicine cabinets in each cubicle.

The only downside is that all those sleek hard surfaces create a lot of noise. In opening week, the place was predictably rammed and it was hard to make ourselves heard over the din. Great for groups and quick lunch stops, but not so good for cosy dinner dates. Another minor niggle is that the tables for two are very close together and quite small, so dishes have to be served afternoon tea style on tiered trays. The best seats are the more spacious black leather booths and the quieter downstairs area, which is due to open soon.

THE FOOD: We started with the house crisps which are zingy little triangles, more like filo than potato and completely grease-free so possibly baked rather than fried. We had fun trying to guess the seasoning - possibly amchoor (a citrusy dried mango powder)? Next came two similarly greaseless lamb samosas, packed full of well-seasoned spicy mince, and three excellent chutneys (sweet and tangy tamarind and date; cooling mint and coriander; and a fiery tomato salsa). Lamb sheekh kebabs laced with cumin were perked up by a squeeze of lime and deftly grilled chunk of tender murgh malai was a good alternative to the hotter chicken tikka.

Dishoom's signature roomali roti, made by stretching the thin dough over a dome, is lighter than naan and less dense than paratha - perfect for mopping up leftover sauces. I liked the dark, earthy house daal but my companion was less impressed, declaring it one dimensional. Perhaps a golden yellow tarka daal would be a worthy addition to the menu? Skipping small plates like desi fish fingers and chilli cheese toast, we ordered the curry of the day - lamb dahi-wala. The lamb was tender enough to cut with a spoon and the sauce was lightly spiced, creamy and tangy with yoghurt - close to a korma but not as insipid. It was tasty but pricey at £7.90 for a small bowlful. A very Western chocolate fondant seemed misplaced on the dessert menu; we preferred the mouth-puckering passion fruit and chilli granita and the Mini Milk-style kulfi on a stick.

The dishes arrives quickly, all at once - perfect if you’ve got limited time before the theatre but not ideal if you’re a slow eater or like to linger over your meal. As food blogger Chris Pople noted in his review, it can feel like a race to eat the dishes before they go cold. Next time, we’ll ask if they can stagger our order. The swift service is a plus at times though, especially if you’re only dropping in for a lunchtime roti or a bacon naan en route to work.

THE DRINKS: From the fragrant house chai to the creamy cooling lassis, drinkers at Dishoom are spoilt for choice. There’s a small but carefully compiled wine list and a couple of beers but the real winners are the cocktails - all priced under £6. The best of these are the St Martini, a smooth gin and pomegranate Martini with a subtle chilli kick, and the chaijito, a lightly spiced twist on the classic. Filtered water is available in Dishoom-branded bottles priced at £1, of which 20p goes to helping to provide clean water for Bombay slums.

THE VERDICT: Admittedly, it's early days but we've yet to hear a bad word said about Dishoom. The quality ingredients and low prices are a rarity in an area more familiar with the mediocrity of Bella Italia and Angus Steakhouses. On our visit, service was hyper-efficient and friendly, if a little over-rehearsed, but things should feel more relaxed in a month or so. The food, while tasty, might not blow your mind but it’s fresh, honest and they don’t skimp on the spice. With the Mexican next door failing to impress and the long waits for tables at Jamie’s Italian, Dishoom is currently your best bet in St Martin’s Courtyard. For lunch stops, pre-theatre feasts and curry-in-a-hurry, it’s definitely worth a place on your To Do list.

Prism: A Pleasant Surprise, Sitting Pretty In The City

On the hottest evening of the year so far, Prism’s windowless dining room might not be the obvious choice. However, as we stepped from the humid streets into the blissfully air-conditioned sanctuary, we knew we had made the right decision. The high ceilings and soaring columns give the former Bank of New York building an airy, if somewhat formal, charm and I imagine it is prime City slicker territory at lunchtime. On a Friday evening, however, there wasn’t a braying banker in sight and our fellow diners were quiet couples and smart post-work groups enjoying drinks and bar bites.

Cocktails are particularly good at Prism, though they’re not cheap at around £8-9 each. To start, we tried a Cluedo-themed tipple - the Colonel Mustard - made with mustard vodka from London distillery, Sipsmith. This was advertised elsewhere as a pear-flavoured conconction but what appeared at our table was more like an apple sour, complete with apple crisp. Absinthe green in colour, it was sour but smooth with a fiery after-kick from the mustard vodka. If apple’s not your thing, try the Bloody Scarlet – Prism’s take on the classic Bloody Mary, with an extra punch from the mustard vodka. To accompany our cocktails, a board of mini-nibbles – prawns with lemon and chilli; tiny skewered quail’s eggs topped with celery salt; and delicious chunks of fried chorizo on blobs of pungent aioli. All delicious and greedily demolished in seconds.

My starter of pea risotto had a creamy, comfort food consistency with crisp pea shoots, lemon and mint adding a summery freshness. The plump garden peas were sweet, if a little undercooked, and the rice, despite its pleasing bite, would have benefited from more seasoning. My companion fared better with a special of ox cheek ravioli - plump pasta parcels filled with an exceptionally rich, meaty ragu. Some excellent  nutty bread came in handy for mopping up the sauce bordelaise, intensely flavoured with thyme, beef stock and good red wine.

While I struggled to pick a main course from the slightly uninspiring list, my companion immediately plumped for the Longhorn rib eye and was rewarded with a hefty, full-flavoured slab of cow. The wooden board it arrived on isn’t to everyone’s taste (as they don’t retain heat very well) but the steak itself was perfectly cooked with a smoky char on the outside and tender pink flesh within. While not quite up there with Hawksmoor’s beefy offerings, this was definitely one of the better steaks we’ve been served in the City.

A small side of spring greens was nice enough and some uninteresting chips were improved by dunking them in more of the bordelaise sauce (so good it had to be enjoyed twice). Less successful was my smoked poached haddock. This may have been a poor choice on my part but the generous piece of smoked fish smothered in hollandaise sauce was just too rich and far too much. Sat on it’s bed of salty samphire and accompanied by shards of crisp Parma ham which was saltier still, this was an unfortunate bit of ordering on my part.

With the pianist in one corner and the warm pink light streaming through the faux-windows, it’s easy to lose track of time at Prism. We lingered over a white chocolate dessert, which was inexplicably accompanied by dried fruit. In July? Surely berries would have made more sense? Thankfully, we left on a high as the charming manager handed over two adorably childish mini ice-cream cones and we stepped out on to the still-warm streets, dripping raspberry sauce all the way to Bank. Our meal might not have been flawless but we’ve rarely had such an enjoyable evening in the heart of the City – an area not exactly heaving with first class eateries. Full marks to our knowledgeable waitress too, for ensuring that Prism was a pleasant surprise at every stage.

Goldfish City: Seafood, Spice And Delicate Dim Sum

Geoffrey Leong’s Restaurant Privilege group now boasts over fifteen eateries across London, from old faithfuls like Koi to newcomers like Leong’s Legends in Bayswater. Business is booming and if a venue struggles, it’s usually scrapped to be reinvented as something more appealing. When Keelung’s Taiwanese seafood failed to seduce Soho foodies, it rose phoenix-style from the ashes as the Empress of Sichuan. Meanwhile in the City, an underperforming branch of Hi Sushi has been transformed into a sister site of Goldfish – a Hampstead institution which has been feeding well-heeled locals and celebs for years.

In prime City slicker territory near Bank, the new Goldfish knows its clientele. There’s dim sum for the lunch crowd, a basement bar and karaoke booth for after-work drinkers, and a ground floor dining room smart enough to impress clients or dinner dates. Deliberately minimalist to let the food take centre stage, the room features illuminated panelling (complete with goldfish) and a feature wall embossed with a popular Chinese poem. Our only complaint? The music. On quiet evenings, you might appreciate some background noise but Katie Melua on repeat? We think not, even if she is singing about bicycles in Beijing.

 

Head chef Kevin Chow (ex-Cocoon) has kept the menu refreshingly concise with a strong focus on fish and seafood. There are some Western favourites like black bean chicken and crispy duck on offer, but we bypassed these in favour of scallops, prawns and a few Sichuan classics. To start, we shared the signature duck salad which was full of fresh flavours and chunks of moist but crispy duck. In amongst the leaves we found mint, slivers of mango, cashew nuts and flecks of chilli, all lightly tossed in a zingy dressing. If only all salads could be like this.

Next, a bamboo basket full of delicately steamed dim sum. Unlike the sometimes stodgy dumplings we’ve encountered at Leong’s Legends, these were light and almost fragile – the thin translucent skins yielding to the slightest prod from our chopsticks. Of the nine pieces, we received three prawn and scallop dumplings, three prawn and chive, and three prawn har gau – all delicious, made with fresh sweet prawns, but a bit of variety might have been nice. Something fried perhaps? If you’re a dim sum fan, there’s more of it on offer at lunchtime, along with some reasonably priced ramen, stir-fries and bento meals. You could easily ‘do lunch’ for £20 a head and leave stuffed.

Having devoured the last of the dim sum, four main courses proved a challenge but we soldiered on. Another signature dish of wasabi prawns was a hit – served on a wooden platter, the fat prawns were deep-fried in something similar to tempura batter and then smothered in a paste of avocado and wasabi. The sweetness took the edge off the wasabi heat (perhaps wise for Western palates) but we would have liked the prawns a little crispier. A similar dish of prawns rolled in vivid yellow mango mayo proved popular at a neighbouring table.

Kung po chicken, packed full of vicious dried red chillies, was as good as we’ve had anywhere in London and a dish of scallops with ginger, spring onion and soy was wonderfully fragrant and enjoyable in spite of the scallops being slightly overcooked. Now full to bursting, we stumbled on the surprise star dish of the night – ma po tofu, a traditional Sichuan dish of braised tofu with minced beef. Goldfish City’s version includes bright green edamame beans in amongst the fiery chilli bean sauce and cubes of soft, silky tofu. If you’re not a tofu fan, it’s still worth a try – you might find yourself converted.

Unable to part with our leftovers, we took them home and feasted like kings again the next day. Goldfish City might not serve the best Chinese food in London, but it’s certainly one of your best options in the City right now. Take advantage of the special offer they’re currently running or go at lunch when prices are lower – you’ll never go back to the dim sum chains. The Leong empire strikes back!

Independence Day: Where To Go All-American In London

Whether you’re a homesick expat or just a USA-enthusiast, you can celebrate Independence Day in style without leaving London this Sunday. Here are some of the best places to wave your star-spangled banner on 4th July.

Byron – Yes, it’s a chain but if all you need is a decent burger, fries, onion rings and a shake, then you can’t go wrong. We love the chilled out basement at their Soho site and the roughed-up Upper Street branch, but you can’t find them all over London. Check out the new sites at Covent Garden and Canary Wharf, order a burger with real American cheese and an Oreo shake – you won’t be disappointed.

The Blues Kitchen – Camden’s bluesy bourbon bar is hosting a full day of all-American fun including a hot dog eating contest and the chance to sing for your supper. (The winning singer eats for free!) If you’re hungry, tuck into mains like seafood jambalaya or Southern Fried chicken and your dessert is free. Just drinking? Try the Stars & Stripes shake (layered strawberry, blueberry and vanilla) or the Flamin’ Bonfire cocktail – a fiery mix of bourbon, Chambord, cranberry juice and a little chilli.

Circus – This Covent Garden newcomer split the critics when it first opened but now seems to have settled in and won over the West End crowd. Pop in on Sunday for an all-American brunch complete with tableside entertainment and classic dishes like spiced crab cakes, Mexican quesadillas and pancake stacks with caramelised bananas and honeycomb butter. They’re open from 11am to 3pm so if you show up fashionably late you can probably justify a cocktail or two. (The mixed berry julep is definitely worth a try.)

The Lexington – This Kings Cross drinking hole became a favourite with the london-eating team after a great meal there when it first opened. The food (American) is still pretty good but the real draw at this laid-back saloon bar is the fine selection of bourbons, which includes hard-to-find favourites like Pappy Van Winkle, Four Roses and Parkers. There are just six cocktails but they’re all made with love and the best of the bunch is the St Lucius – Buffalo Trace, apple juice and maple syrup in a cinnamon-crusted Martini glass.

(Note: Love bourbon? You can also indulge at Charlotte Street Blues, The Blues Kitchen, Slim Jim’s (Upper St), Ink Rooms, the Rockwell and – if you’re feeling flush – the bar at JW Steakhouse.)

The White Horse – At the infamous Sloaney Pony in Parsons Green, they’re hosting an American beer festival from 2nd to 4th July. Stop by and try draught beers from Stateside brewers like Flying Dog, Goose Island and Yard’s Brewing. Stick around for a hog roast and barn dance in the evening. (Too far south? Check out the Strongroom American Beer Festival in Shoreditch – ends 4th July).

Bodean’s – Few places can satisfy your beefy cravings like Bodean’s. From 1st-5th July, their Independence Day meat platter is piled high with pulled pork, three kinds of sticky ribs, barbecue chicken, fries and coleslaw. It’s priced at £17.76 per person, in honour of the original date of US Independence in 1776.

If nothing takes your fancy, there's always the option of a meaty brunch at Hawksmoor or a taco and Tequila combo at the new Cantina Laredo in Covent Garden. Check out our New Openings list for more inspiration.

Cocum: Curry With A Keralan Flavour In Hampton Court

Hampton Court, with its palace and lush green spaces, feels much further out of London than it actually is. Bridge Road, opposite the station, has a Primrose Hill sort of charm, with boutiques sandwiched between delis and smart wine shops. We’re here to visit Cocum, the newest addition to the Kerala Group who also own the rather good Ragam in Fitzrovia and Shilpa in Hammersmith. It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it eatery that could easily be mistaken for your average curryhouse but the menu promises something much more interesting. South Indian food is one of our favourites – it’s lighter than heavy North Indian curries with a focus the seafood and vegetables readily available on the south-western coast of India. Most dishes rely heavily on chilli, coconut and curry leaves, with tomatoes and tamarind adding a freshness you don’t find in standard curryhouse fare.

 
 
While a neighbouring table tucked into one of the super-cheap and generous lunchtime thalis, we went a la carte and ordered the rasam and a mini masala dosa. The latter is one of the best known South Indian dishes but not easy to find if you live in Herts, rather than Southall or Tooting. It’s a crisp rice and lentil pancake stuffed with any number of things – the mini version at Cocum is packed full of lightly spiced masala potatoes, gently sweated onions and ginger. It’s much more manageable than the table-sized dosai you’d get in Kerala and comes with a pot of sambhar (lentil and veg curry) and some cooling coconut chutney. It’s hard not to like what is essentially carbs stuffed with carbs and if you’re brave there are full size versions on offer as mains.

The rasam – a peppery lentil soup – was deliciously fragrant, full of garlic, ginger, fresh tomatoes and a sweet-sour swirl of tamarind. This is a Keralan favourite and at Cocum, they don't hold back on the chilli. We’re not wimps when it comes to authentic spicing but this was too much for us, with the chilli burn threatening to destroy our Western tastebuds forever. Not for the faint-hearted but a must for Keralite expats!

 
 
Like most Indian restaurants in the UK, the menu is huge, ranging from the South Indian specialties to familiar favourites like the biryani, smoky tandoor-grilled meats, and – of course – chicken tikka masala. Cocum stands out from the curryhouse crowd thanks to a vast selection of vegetarian dishes (not just side dish afterthoughts) and lesser known seafood curries. From ‘the fishermen’s net’, we chose the fish molly (sometimes spelled ‘moilee’) – chunks of king fish marinated in turmeric and then cooked in a mild but flavoursome curry sauce. It’s rich with coconut milk, refreshed by fresh tomatoes and lemon juice, and – like most South Indian dishes – full of sizzled curry leaves. The king fish is firm, not unlike swordfish or monkfish in texture, and doesn’t flake messily into the sauce. If you’re more likely to order a korma than a vindaloo, this could be a good choice.

We missed a trick and managed to order two similarly mild sides so if you’re unsure, ask the staff for guidance. A chilli rating system might be a helpful addition to the menu as it’s unlikely your average local will be well-versed in the heat levels of Keralan dishes. That said, the vegetable kurukku – a standard mix of beans, carrot, cauliflower and potato – was tasty, with a timid kick and pleasing bite to the veg. As an alternative to the usual tarka dhal, the cheera parippu was excellent. Yellow mung beans and masoor dhal (red lentils) are coaxed into creaminess and then combined with plenty of garlic, cumin and spinach. Before serving, sizzled curry leaves, mustard seeds and shallots give it a deep savoury flavour. Mop it up with a flaky paratha and if by some miracle you’ve still got room, try the traditional payasam for dessert (a sweet cardamom-infused rice pudding).

If you’re local, count yourself lucky, and if you’re not, keep this little gem on the To Do list for your next day trip to Hampton Court. Prices are reasonable and the food is fresh and as authentic as you could hope to find in Surrey. If you’re local to Sutton, check out Tandav (another new opening from the Kerala Group) or click here to discover more South Indian restaurants in London.

Paramount: Highs And Lows With A West End View

Standing on the rain-soaked steps leading up to Centrepoint, we buzzed frantically to be let in. “I thought a members’ club would be more glamorous,” grumbled my colleague, sheltering under a soggy Evening Standard. Inside is much better, with a suitably glossy blonde to guide you to the lift and a dapper gent to meet you on the 32nd floor. The restaurant is open to the public now, which is why we’re here, but the bar remains off limits to non-members unless you’re booked in for dinner. Cocktails are good but pricey at around £11-13 each.

The décor – courtesy of Tom Dixon – does a good job of being invisible. There are dark wood tables and flattering lighting but at this altitude you should be looking out, not in. London’s skyline isn’t the prettiest but on a clear day Bloomsbury and beyond looks charming. If you’re clever or hoping to impress, go early or aim for sunset. (After dark, you risk looking at a reflection of yourself). “I’ve never had good food and a good view in the same place,” said my friend, remembering mediocre meals at similar view-led venues. At Paramount, however, we’re in safe hands with head chef Colin Layfield (ex-L’Odeon) and a refreshingly simple menu.

   
  
We got off to a good start with some good (warm) bread and an impressive twice-baked Roquefort soufflé, perched on fine slivers of pear and endive. While the beetroot cubes didn’t bring much to the party, the soufflé itself was a triumph - crisp on top, light and not overly cheesy within. Across the table, my companion had negotiated one of the mains as her starter - a vibrant green pea and truffle risotto. This was a stunner; the sweet peas and earthy truffles proved perfect partners and the rice was creamy but still retained some bite. If it weren’t for the intensity of truffle, this was a dish you could easily eat too much of.

Skipping over meatier options like the fillet of beef and pork three ways, we both chose fish. The sea bass was perfectly cooked, crisp skin giving way to flaky white flesh, but the frothy caviar cream was a little insipid. Throwing a luxury ingredient at a dish might work to justify the price, but if it doesn’t add flavour it’s best left in the kitchen. The accompanying samphire, gnocchi and a side of Chantenay carrots were tasty and well-seasoned.

  
 
My monkfish, three meaty chunks rolled in five spice, was served on another excellent risotto, this time flavoured with saffron, with three crab spring rolls standing guard nearby. This would have been an excellent dish, if it hadn’t been doused in what tasted like sweet chilli sauce, better suited to a Thai takeaway. This wasn’t listed on the menu and for good reason - it had no place on the plate, the sticky sweetness fighting the savoury spiced fish and delicately flavoured risotto. Gutted.

Things picked up again with dessert, thanks to a flawless crème brulee and a chocolate tasting plate that a fellow foodie had recommended as a must-try. This stylish celebration of Valhrona chocolate included a rich dark chocolate tart, similar to the Louis XV at Gauthier Soho; a crisp chocolate samosa on an intense berry puree; a white chocolate and pistachio mousse triangle; and a tiny chocolate fondant, perfectly molten in the middle. The same attention to detail shone through in the service, from the smartly suited manager to the waiter who recommended a rather good Viognier and maintained a discreet distance throughout, giving us time to chat and enjoy the view.

All things considered, we enjoyed Paramount. The slick service and highlights like the risotto and the desserts made it easy to overlook the occasional misses. As you’d expect at this altitude, it’s not cheap but it’s far from outrageous – perfect for entertaining clients or impressing a date before the theatre. Go for the view, take charming company and let the food be a pleasant surprise.