While most of us have only ever used them for jack-o-lanterns at Halloween, the humble pumpkin has a lot more to offer – that is, if you’re brave enough to carve them. The autumnal favourite is loaded with beta-carotene – (known to reduce the risk of cancer and heart disease) - and they’re also packed full of vitamin C, potassium and fibre, which are all wonderfully good for you.
But that’s enough science. We’re happy to eat them for eating’s sake and, luckily for us, Waterloo Brasserie is saving London’s busy gourmets the hassle of carving their own by serving up a four-course pumpkin menu for one week only. We visited yesterday on a suitably chilly October evening and settled into the darkly stylish main restaurant, which is actually an ideal setting for a night so close to Halloween thanks to its sleek dark furniture, moody lighting, and canvases splashed with warm shades of red and orange.
Naturally, I went for the full pumpkin menu which begins with a traditional soup. Served piping hot in
a hollowed-out half pumpkin; it was well-seasoned and had a much deeper, earthier flavour than the roasted butternut squash soup I had made just days before. The bijou portion was just enough to set the mood and between the two of us we mopped up every last drop with the excellent poppy seed bread. From the special Autumn drinks list, I chose the Thanksgiving cocktail – a blend of Tanquerary gin, Martini (extra dry), apricot brandy, and lemon juice that cleverly cut through the rich pumpkin flavours.
Next came a delicious square of puréed pumpkin lasagne, packed with fresh wild mushrooms and topped with a pine nut velouté. Full of flavour and not too heavy or rich, this was a vegetarian’s dream and a welcome change from the tomato-based original. So far so good.
My dining companion, who had so far waited patiently while I worked my way through two courses, was rewarded with a perfectly cooked bavette steak and pommes dauphinoise. My third course was, sadly, less successful. While the risotto itself was well cooked and accompanied by a delicately flavoursome sage cream, the bitesize chunks of pumpkin suffered from being slightly undercooked. A real shame, as this was otherwise an excellent dish.
We rounded off the evening by sharing the almond nougat ice-cream. Firm, as opposed to creamy, in texture; it was studded with chunks of chewy nougat and drizzled with a subtly sweet pumpkin coulis. Light and not unlike frozen yoghurt, it was a suitably satisfying end to our seasonal feast.
The Pumpkin Menu is available all week (ending on October 31st) and is priced at £25 for four courses. If you’re not in the mood of a full-on feast, you can also order the dishes individually to complement your choices from the a la carte.