Linked to Terminal 5 by a sleek walkway, the Heathrow Sofitel's marble maze of bars, boutiques and luxury bedrooms wouldn't look out of place in Mayfair. It's only fair, then, that it's got a suitably stylish restaurant to match. Overseen by Albert himself, Brasserie Roux is a smart but unpretentious space with grey banquette seating, plush plum-coloured fabrics and an impressive water feature designed by David Harber. Diners can sit under clever pagoda-like structures, which shield them from the prying eyes of hotel guests in the rooms above, and the space is so well sound-proofed that you can only tell you're in an airport if you look out of the window.
Under the watchful gaze of manager Thierry de Magneval, the staff provide refreshingly attentive but understated service. We were left to enjoy each course in peace but were never left waiting for our glasses to be topped up or our questions to be answered. Our waiter, for example, was only too happy to list the herbs in the vinaigrette that accompanied one of our starters - a warm leek salad served with a perfectly poached egg and crisp croutons. Proof, if it were needed, that the most enjoyable dishes are those where the flavours are allowed to speak for themselves.
I chose the classic French onion soup, hoping it would be better than the dire brown broth I was served at a certain 'mega-brasserie' in Spitalfields. I needn't have worried - it was as good, if not better, than any I've had in France. Rich, sweet and full of soft bread and stringy cheese; it's difficult to eat elegantly but perfect if you're craving something warm and wintry.
French food enthusiasts are spoilt for choice here, with Chef Jonathan Predy's lengthy a la carte and frequently updated 'Menu Classique' to choose from - as well as the intriguing RouXpress menu, where guests with limited time can enjoy four dishes served at the same time. We were tempted by the Dover sole with tomato hollandaise but eventually settled on the lamb and the monkfish cassoulet. The rack of lamb, encased in a light herb crust and deliciously pink in the middle, was served with pomme fondant, roast garlic, ratatouille and a red wine jus. While that might sound like a flavour too many, it all worked very well and the lamb itself was meltingly tender.
The cassoulet was equally well executed, though I struggled with the generous chunks of monkfish and flavoursome beans after my hearty starter. Luckily, the wine list's only by-the-glass rosé was light and crisp enough to cut through the richness of the dish, while my companion enjoyed the smooth Domaine du Coteau des Lys Beaujolais. One of Albert's favourites, we were told.
Already full, we shunned the well-stocked cheese trolley in favour of something sweet. The smooth chocolate crème brulée passed the two-tap test with flying colours, while the crisp macaroon filled with rich chestnut mousse was devoured within minutes. The signature madeleines were so good I smuggled one out in my handbag, but only because we didn’t have time to relax in the Tea Salon after lunch.
Authentic French brasserie fare is something that London has yet to perfect. If you do find any, you end up paying extortionate prices that would be better spent on a Eurostar ticket. Perhaps we should have guessed that they’ve been hiding the good stuff somewhere like Heathrow. Yes, the prices are a little high and an airport hotel restaurant may never be as ‘buzzy’ as they might like; but when the food and the service are this good, it seems unfair to complain. There are plenty of places to eat in Terminal 5 itself, but Brasserie Roux is the ultimate antidote for jet-lagged taste buds. For tranquility, fine wine and authentic French flavours; you would be mad to miss out on a meal here.
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