The phrase ‘seedy Soho’ was probably invented for side streets like Greens Court. The quiet alley off Brewer Street is home to a tattoo parlour, a shoe shop specialising in stripper heels, and Yalla Yalla - a new-ish Lebanese café that lurks in the shadows like the proverbial diamond in the rough. Inside, it’s a cosy candlelit space with only a few tables and stools to perch on. When we visited, two businessmen in the corner looked as though they might need a crobar to get out again but seemed happy enough with their mezze.
To combat the early evening heat, we chose a jug of tap water (happily handed over, no up-selling), a glass of (slightly warm) white wine, a Bloody Mary, and a vodka cocktail made with lemonade, honey and crushed ice. From a menu packed full of the usual suspects, we shared deliciously salty grilled halloumi; soujoc - spicy sausages with tomato, parsley and lemon juice; and batata harra – sautéed potatoes with a warming chilli kick.
From the ‘mains’, the chicken shawarma was a suitably light but tasty choice for a humid evening. The thin strips of marinated chicken arrived on a bed of fragrant rice with a sumac onion salad and a paper-thin flatbread underneath. A simple dish done well - the plate was soon cleared.
Houmous, topped with chickpeas and good quality oil, tasted homemade and was eagerly mopped up with the accompanying warm bread. Baba ghannouj (grilled aubergine puree) had a welcome tang of tahini and was studded with glistening pomegranate seeds that burst in the mouth with a satisfying fruity freshness.
Kibbé nayyé (lamb tartar) was sadly unavailable but our lovely waitress recommended the kibbé lahmé instead. The deep-fried lamb and cracked wheat parcels had a good flavour but felt a little dry – we could have done with a bit more tahini or garlic sauce on the table. We found the pastry of the lamb samboussek a little too thick, but they were gone in seconds (hence no photo) and had a well spiced lamb and pine nut filling.
With the most expensive dish on the menu coming in at £10.50, prices are refreshingly low. The individual portions aren’t huge though so dine with someone who shares well or risk a fork battle for the last morsels.
All things considered, this is the third decent meal we’ve had in Soho in as many months – a vast improvement on last year – and we only hope that standards don’t slip over time. The flavours were fresher and tastier than a lot of Lebanese food we’ve had in London, so there’s a good chance we’ll be back. If you work nearby, it’s worth mentioning that their takeaway service seemed popular and probably a much healthier lunch option than you usually find in Soho. Give it a try and let us know how you get on!
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