After working through a busy December and a seemingly endless January, the city-eating team deserved a break. Bags packed, we debated where to go. We knew there wasn’t enough time for Bali or Vancouver, but we’re still not quite sure how we ended up on a 7am flight to Belfast. When we arrived, it looked as we expected - cold, grey and industrial, with grim new concrete buildings sat next to the beautiful old ones. As a city break destination, it might not satisfy hardcore culture vultures but if all you want to do is eat, drink and recharge, you can't go far wrong. Just don't expect good weather!
EAT: Our most enjoyable meal was at Paul Rankin’s Cayenne – stay tuned for the full review – but you can also eat well at Tedfords (great for seafood), Nick’s Warehouse, James Street South and the Mourne Seafood Bar. If London’s fine dining fuss bores you rigid, then try one of the laid-back brasseries like Made in Belfast or Beatrice Kennedy – both serve consistently good food, making the most of local produce without charging a fortune. Ethnic eats probably won’t beat what you’re used to in London but if you’re craving curry head for The Jharna on Lisburn Road. For Japanese, there’s Sakura and Zen.
DON'T MISS: The Ginger Bistro – a popular little eatery with ex-Nick’s Warehouse chef, Simon McCance, at the helm. Tucked away on Hope Street, it was busy when we visited mid-week but the cooking was spot on. Highlights included roast hake with a leek, crayfish and pea casserole; an excellent belly of pork with crisp black pudding; and two flawless puddings – crème brulee and chocolate fondant. Simplicity is key here and the prices are extremely reasonable, especially if you eat early. London needs more restaurants like this.
DRINK: Cocktails at The Merchant Hotel are a must. The bar is as plush as they come, with soaring ceilings, sparkling chandeliers, and a drinks bible full of old-world classics. Just around the corner, try the John Hewitt where there’s live music most nights or head for popular dive bar, The Spaniard. The walls of this tiny but surprisingly well-stocked bar are lined with album covers, eclectic pictures and postcards, while the iTunes-powered play list is pure classic rock. Squeeze in and head down the back for candlelit darts.
DON'T MISS: The Crown Bar – a well-kept Victorian gin palace on Great Victoria Street. The listed interior, with its stained glass windows and old-fashioned ‘snugs’, is rather impressive and it doesn’t feel as touristy as you might expect. Bar prices aren’t the cheapest and we waited far too long to be served but the food was pretty good. Pop in for a pint, a pie or a huge bowl of Irish stew.
STAY: If money is no object then The Merchant is an obvious winner, but there are good deals to be had at the Crescent Town House, the Fitzwilliam and Ten Square. The much cheaper options looked like high-rise prisons so if you’re on a budget, check out the B&Bs and guesthouses on TripAdvisor.
EXPLORE: South of the city centre is Belfast’s ‘premier shopping district’ - the Lisburn Road. The tourist board compares it to the King’s Road in Chelsea and while it’s not quite as smart, it is home to some lovely boutique clothes shops, delis, cafes and the award-winning Shu restaurant. Don’t miss the Arcadia Fine Food Store, Barnam’s ice-cream parlour or the Yellow Door Deli. There’s a useful map of the road here. If you’re up bright and early on a Saturday, head for St George’s Market – Belfast’s answer to Borough, where you can check out local produce like fish landed at Portavogie and beef from Armagh. There’s plenty to eat on the run and enough continental specialties to satisfy even the fussiest foodie.
AND FINALLY: If you do only one thing in Belfast, please eat an Ulster Fry. This is essentially Northern Ireland's answer to the Full English and usually includes a gut-busting combination of soda bread, potato bread, toast, fried eggs, sausage, bacon, tomato, mushroom and black or white pudding, sometimes both. We managed three of these heart attack inducing feasts in four days - they might not be healthy but they are delicious when done right and you certainly won't need lunch afterwards. Do they exist in London? We hope so. If not, there's a gap in the market to be filled!
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I'm glad to be of your space. The pictures are good-looking, and writing is very good!
Posted by: Rerto Jordans | June 20, 2010 at 03:02 AM