Hampton Court, with its palace and lush green spaces, feels much further out of London than it actually is. Bridge Road, opposite the station, has a Primrose Hill sort of charm, with boutiques sandwiched between delis and smart wine shops. We’re here to visit Cocum, the newest addition to the Kerala Group who also own the rather good Ragam in Fitzrovia and Shilpa in Hammersmith. It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it eatery that could easily be mistaken for your average curryhouse but the menu promises something much more interesting. South Indian food is one of our favourites – it’s lighter than heavy North Indian curries with a focus the seafood and vegetables readily available on the south-western coast of India. Most dishes rely heavily on chilli, coconut and curry leaves, with tomatoes and tamarind adding a freshness you don’t find in standard curryhouse fare.
While a neighbouring table tucked into one of the super-cheap and generous lunchtime thalis, we went a la carte and ordered the rasam and a mini masala dosa. The latter is one of the best known South Indian dishes but not easy to find if you live in Herts, rather than Southall or Tooting. It’s a crisp rice and lentil pancake stuffed with any number of things – the mini version at Cocum is packed full of lightly spiced masala potatoes, gently sweated onions and ginger. It’s much more manageable than the table-sized dosai you’d get in Kerala and comes with a pot of sambhar (lentil and veg curry) and some cooling coconut chutney. It’s hard not to like what is essentially carbs stuffed with carbs and if you’re brave there are full size versions on offer as mains.
The rasam – a peppery lentil soup – was deliciously fragrant, full of garlic, ginger, fresh tomatoes and a sweet-sour swirl of tamarind. This is a Keralan favourite and at Cocum, they don't hold back on the chilli. We’re not wimps when it comes to authentic spicing but this was too much for us, with the chilli burn threatening to destroy our Western tastebuds forever. Not for the faint-hearted but a must for Keralite expats!
Like most Indian restaurants in the UK, the menu is huge, ranging from the South Indian specialties to familiar favourites like the biryani, smoky tandoor-grilled meats, and – of course – chicken tikka masala. Cocum stands out from the curryhouse crowd thanks to a vast selection of vegetarian dishes (not just side dish afterthoughts) and lesser known seafood curries. From ‘the fishermen’s net’, we chose the fish molly (sometimes spelled ‘moilee’) – chunks of king fish marinated in turmeric and then cooked in a mild but flavoursome curry sauce. It’s rich with coconut milk, refreshed by fresh tomatoes and lemon juice, and – like most South Indian dishes – full of sizzled curry leaves. The king fish is firm, not unlike swordfish or monkfish in texture, and doesn’t flake messily into the sauce. If you’re more likely to order a korma than a vindaloo, this could be a good choice.
We missed a trick and managed to order two similarly mild sides so if you’re unsure, ask the staff for guidance. A chilli rating system might be a helpful addition to the menu as it’s unlikely your average local will be well-versed in the heat levels of Keralan dishes. That said, the vegetable kurukku – a standard mix of beans, carrot, cauliflower and potato – was tasty, with a timid kick and pleasing bite to the veg. As an alternative to the usual tarka dhal, the cheera parippu was excellent. Yellow mung beans and masoor dhal (red lentils) are coaxed into creaminess and then combined with plenty of garlic, cumin and spinach. Before serving, sizzled curry leaves, mustard seeds and shallots give it a deep savoury flavour. Mop it up with a flaky paratha and if by some miracle you’ve still got room, try the traditional payasam for dessert (a sweet cardamom-infused rice pudding).
If you’re local, count yourself lucky, and if you’re not, keep this little gem on the To Do list for your next day trip to Hampton Court. Prices are reasonable and the food is fresh and as authentic as you could hope to find in Surrey. If you’re local to Sutton, check out Tandav (another new opening from the Kerala Group) or click here to discover more South Indian restaurants in London.
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