City Eating

Independence Day: Where To Go All-American In London

Whether you’re a homesick expat or just a USA-enthusiast, you can celebrate Independence Day in style without leaving London this Sunday. Here are some of the best places to wave your star-spangled banner on 4th July.

Byron – Yes, it’s a chain but if all you need is a decent burger, fries, onion rings and a shake, then you can’t go wrong. We love the chilled out basement at their Soho site and the roughed-up Upper Street branch, but you can’t find them all over London. Check out the new sites at Covent Garden and Canary Wharf, order a burger with real American cheese and an Oreo shake – you won’t be disappointed.

The Blues Kitchen – Camden’s bluesy bourbon bar is hosting a full day of all-American fun including a hot dog eating contest and the chance to sing for your supper. (The winning singer eats for free!) If you’re hungry, tuck into mains like seafood jambalaya or Southern Fried chicken and your dessert is free. Just drinking? Try the Stars & Stripes shake (layered strawberry, blueberry and vanilla) or the Flamin’ Bonfire cocktail – a fiery mix of bourbon, Chambord, cranberry juice and a little chilli.

Circus – This Covent Garden newcomer split the critics when it first opened but now seems to have settled in and won over the West End crowd. Pop in on Sunday for an all-American brunch complete with tableside entertainment and classic dishes like spiced crab cakes, Mexican quesadillas and pancake stacks with caramelised bananas and honeycomb butter. They’re open from 11am to 3pm so if you show up fashionably late you can probably justify a cocktail or two. (The mixed berry julep is definitely worth a try.)

The Lexington – This Kings Cross drinking hole became a favourite with the london-eating team after a great meal there when it first opened. The food (American) is still pretty good but the real draw at this laid-back saloon bar is the fine selection of bourbons, which includes hard-to-find favourites like Pappy Van Winkle, Four Roses and Parkers. There are just six cocktails but they’re all made with love and the best of the bunch is the St Lucius – Buffalo Trace, apple juice and maple syrup in a cinnamon-crusted Martini glass.

(Note: Love bourbon? You can also indulge at Charlotte Street Blues, The Blues Kitchen, Slim Jim’s (Upper St), Ink Rooms, the Rockwell and – if you’re feeling flush – the bar at JW Steakhouse.)

The White Horse – At the infamous Sloaney Pony in Parsons Green, they’re hosting an American beer festival from 2nd to 4th July. Stop by and try draught beers from Stateside brewers like Flying Dog, Goose Island and Yard’s Brewing. Stick around for a hog roast and barn dance in the evening. (Too far south? Check out the Strongroom American Beer Festival in Shoreditch – ends 4th July).

Bodean’s – Few places can satisfy your beefy cravings like Bodean’s. From 1st-5th July, their Independence Day meat platter is piled high with pulled pork, three kinds of sticky ribs, barbecue chicken, fries and coleslaw. It’s priced at £17.76 per person, in honour of the original date of US Independence in 1776.

If nothing takes your fancy, there's always the option of a meaty brunch at Hawksmoor or a taco and Tequila combo at the new Cantina Laredo in Covent Garden. Check out our New Openings list for more inspiration.

Cocum: Curry With A Keralan Flavour In Hampton Court

Hampton Court, with its palace and lush green spaces, feels much further out of London than it actually is. Bridge Road, opposite the station, has a Primrose Hill sort of charm, with boutiques sandwiched between delis and smart wine shops. We’re here to visit Cocum, the newest addition to the Kerala Group who also own the rather good Ragam in Fitzrovia and Shilpa in Hammersmith. It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it eatery that could easily be mistaken for your average curryhouse but the menu promises something much more interesting. South Indian food is one of our favourites – it’s lighter than heavy North Indian curries with a focus the seafood and vegetables readily available on the south-western coast of India. Most dishes rely heavily on chilli, coconut and curry leaves, with tomatoes and tamarind adding a freshness you don’t find in standard curryhouse fare.

 
 
While a neighbouring table tucked into one of the super-cheap and generous lunchtime thalis, we went a la carte and ordered the rasam and a mini masala dosa. The latter is one of the best known South Indian dishes but not easy to find if you live in Herts, rather than Southall or Tooting. It’s a crisp rice and lentil pancake stuffed with any number of things – the mini version at Cocum is packed full of lightly spiced masala potatoes, gently sweated onions and ginger. It’s much more manageable than the table-sized dosai you’d get in Kerala and comes with a pot of sambhar (lentil and veg curry) and some cooling coconut chutney. It’s hard not to like what is essentially carbs stuffed with carbs and if you’re brave there are full size versions on offer as mains.

The rasam – a peppery lentil soup – was deliciously fragrant, full of garlic, ginger, fresh tomatoes and a sweet-sour swirl of tamarind. This is a Keralan favourite and at Cocum, they don't hold back on the chilli. We’re not wimps when it comes to authentic spicing but this was too much for us, with the chilli burn threatening to destroy our Western tastebuds forever. Not for the faint-hearted but a must for Keralite expats!

 
 
Like most Indian restaurants in the UK, the menu is huge, ranging from the South Indian specialties to familiar favourites like the biryani, smoky tandoor-grilled meats, and – of course – chicken tikka masala. Cocum stands out from the curryhouse crowd thanks to a vast selection of vegetarian dishes (not just side dish afterthoughts) and lesser known seafood curries. From ‘the fishermen’s net’, we chose the fish molly (sometimes spelled ‘moilee’) – chunks of king fish marinated in turmeric and then cooked in a mild but flavoursome curry sauce. It’s rich with coconut milk, refreshed by fresh tomatoes and lemon juice, and – like most South Indian dishes – full of sizzled curry leaves. The king fish is firm, not unlike swordfish or monkfish in texture, and doesn’t flake messily into the sauce. If you’re more likely to order a korma than a vindaloo, this could be a good choice.

We missed a trick and managed to order two similarly mild sides so if you’re unsure, ask the staff for guidance. A chilli rating system might be a helpful addition to the menu as it’s unlikely your average local will be well-versed in the heat levels of Keralan dishes. That said, the vegetable kurukku – a standard mix of beans, carrot, cauliflower and potato – was tasty, with a timid kick and pleasing bite to the veg. As an alternative to the usual tarka dhal, the cheera parippu was excellent. Yellow mung beans and masoor dhal (red lentils) are coaxed into creaminess and then combined with plenty of garlic, cumin and spinach. Before serving, sizzled curry leaves, mustard seeds and shallots give it a deep savoury flavour. Mop it up with a flaky paratha and if by some miracle you’ve still got room, try the traditional payasam for dessert (a sweet cardamom-infused rice pudding).

If you’re local, count yourself lucky, and if you’re not, keep this little gem on the To Do list for your next day trip to Hampton Court. Prices are reasonable and the food is fresh and as authentic as you could hope to find in Surrey. If you’re local to Sutton, check out Tandav (another new opening from the Kerala Group) or click here to discover more South Indian restaurants in London.

Paramount: Highs And Lows With A West End View

Standing on the rain-soaked steps leading up to Centrepoint, we buzzed frantically to be let in. “I thought a members’ club would be more glamorous,” grumbled my colleague, sheltering under a soggy Evening Standard. Inside is much better, with a suitably glossy blonde to guide you to the lift and a dapper gent to meet you on the 32nd floor. The restaurant is open to the public now, which is why we’re here, but the bar remains off limits to non-members unless you’re booked in for dinner. Cocktails are good but pricey at around £11-13 each.

The décor – courtesy of Tom Dixon – does a good job of being invisible. There are dark wood tables and flattering lighting but at this altitude you should be looking out, not in. London’s skyline isn’t the prettiest but on a clear day Bloomsbury and beyond looks charming. If you’re clever or hoping to impress, go early or aim for sunset. (After dark, you risk looking at a reflection of yourself). “I’ve never had good food and a good view in the same place,” said my friend, remembering mediocre meals at similar view-led venues. At Paramount, however, we’re in safe hands with head chef Colin Layfield (ex-L’Odeon) and a refreshingly simple menu.

   
  
We got off to a good start with some good (warm) bread and an impressive twice-baked Roquefort soufflé, perched on fine slivers of pear and endive. While the beetroot cubes didn’t bring much to the party, the soufflé itself was a triumph - crisp on top, light and not overly cheesy within. Across the table, my companion had negotiated one of the mains as her starter - a vibrant green pea and truffle risotto. This was a stunner; the sweet peas and earthy truffles proved perfect partners and the rice was creamy but still retained some bite. If it weren’t for the intensity of truffle, this was a dish you could easily eat too much of.

Skipping over meatier options like the fillet of beef and pork three ways, we both chose fish. The sea bass was perfectly cooked, crisp skin giving way to flaky white flesh, but the frothy caviar cream was a little insipid. Throwing a luxury ingredient at a dish might work to justify the price, but if it doesn’t add flavour it’s best left in the kitchen. The accompanying samphire, gnocchi and a side of Chantenay carrots were tasty and well-seasoned.

  
 
My monkfish, three meaty chunks rolled in five spice, was served on another excellent risotto, this time flavoured with saffron, with three crab spring rolls standing guard nearby. This would have been an excellent dish, if it hadn’t been doused in what tasted like sweet chilli sauce, better suited to a Thai takeaway. This wasn’t listed on the menu and for good reason - it had no place on the plate, the sticky sweetness fighting the savoury spiced fish and delicately flavoured risotto. Gutted.

Things picked up again with dessert, thanks to a flawless crème brulee and a chocolate tasting plate that a fellow foodie had recommended as a must-try. This stylish celebration of Valhrona chocolate included a rich dark chocolate tart, similar to the Louis XV at Gauthier Soho; a crisp chocolate samosa on an intense berry puree; a white chocolate and pistachio mousse triangle; and a tiny chocolate fondant, perfectly molten in the middle. The same attention to detail shone through in the service, from the smartly suited manager to the waiter who recommended a rather good Viognier and maintained a discreet distance throughout, giving us time to chat and enjoy the view.

All things considered, we enjoyed Paramount. The slick service and highlights like the risotto and the desserts made it easy to overlook the occasional misses. As you’d expect at this altitude, it’s not cheap but it’s far from outrageous – perfect for entertaining clients or impressing a date before the theatre. Go for the view, take charming company and let the food be a pleasant surprise.

The Jam Tree: Full-On Flavours At This Kensington Stunner

With all the fuss about Boulud and Viajante, the opening of The Jam Tree might have slipped under your radar. There’s no celeb chef involved and the location, just round the corner from Kensington Olympia, isn’t exactly W1. The trio that own it have connections to Aquum, Pacha, and DJ Judge Jules, so we half expected a moody lounge bar with a thumping Ibiza-style soundtrack. Thankfully, they have just given an unloved pub called The Priory a sympathetic makeover, leaving the handsome copper bar in place. There are some gastropub design standards, like the leather banquettes and mismatched antique furniture, alongside quirkier touches like the Warhol-inspired jam pot painting above the bar and the science lab bench tables.

The menu promises ‘Great British dishes with colonial favourites from Malaysia, South Africa and India’. This could go one of two ways, we thought, and one of those ends with a Chinese on the way home. Sadly, things didn’t start well with some ‘spiced Cornish crab samosas’ that weren’t all that spicy and had no discernible crab flavour. The cucumber raita and zingy tomato and onion cachumber were nice but not enough to save the dish. Damn.

Across the table, shards of greaseless crackling went flying and a slab of meltingly tender pork belly was declared ‘the best bit of pig I’ve eaten since Belfast’. The ‘colonial’ influence, this time from Malaysia, was lurking underneath in the form of a fiery aubergine sambal and cooling shredded cucumber. We also shared a decent slice of homemade chicken, asparagus and truffle terrine with some tiny cornichons, a perky salad topped with ultra-fresh broad beans and wild garlic flowers, and best of all, a vivid green pea puree. Chef James Browne (ex-The Settle Inn, The Well) shared the secret - butter, and plenty of it. We should have guessed.

After the globe-trotting starters, we went trad-Brit with the mains and this time I chose the winning dish. In celebration of all things Spring, plump sweet scallops were paired with crisp potato and pea croquettes, samphire and a wild garlic cream sauce. The pungent leaves, beloved of chefs and foragers, didn’t overwhelm the dish and the scallops, whilst on the small side, were perfectly caramelised on top and creamy within. My companion’s lamb rump - served simply in its own delicious pan juices - came with more seasonal goodies like Jersey Royals, broad beans and peas that had retained that freshly podded flavour.

Dessert was unnecessary but not impossible, so we shared a slice of chocolate and hazelnut tart with a generous scoop of vanilla ice-cream. It was good, if not mind-blowing, and a welcome sweet note to end on.

The menu, with its colonial influences, could have been a car crash but thankfully they’ve kept things simple with just seven mains and no sign of any ill-advised ‘fusion’ dishes. There’s a steak and a burger on offer, if you really must, but there’s also a curry and a classic sea trout with caper butter. The wine list was put together by expert Tim Kitchener-Smith and lists some reasonably priced by-the-glass options. The bar is well stocked and there are a handful of tables outside if you just want to swing by for a drink, but if you visit The Jam Tree and don’t eat, you’re missing out.

The nearby Bird in Hand and Havelock Tavern will need to seriously raise their game to compete with this smart newcomer. (The former, on our visit, was dingy and needed a good clean). If you live locally, or you’re in town for an expo at Olympia, seek out The Jam Tree and give it a try. You won’t be disappointed.

Snap Of The Week: Tanqueray Ten Terrace At Harvey Nichols

This summer, the sunny terrace on the Fifth Floor of Harvey Nichols has been transformed by the Tanqueray No. Ten team into a rooftop haven for Martini addicts. Like the Martini itself, the terrace is a simple space with monochrome furniture, black-and-white photography, and a mix of Astroturf and real greenery. In the evening, the lighting is flattering and there are cosy Tanqueray-branded blankets if you want to snuggle up and watch the sunset. The views are nothing to rival Paramount but the people-watching is first class.

Drinks are served with a theatrical flourish, with a clued-up bartender mixing tableside from Art Deco bottles on a black chrome drinks trolley. My companion chose the Basil Berry Crush, served long, with fresh strawberries, basil and Tanqueray muddled with apple juice and St Germain elderflower liqueur. Topped up with Champagne over plenty of crushed ice, it’s a decadent summer drink, and thankfully not too sweet.

I went for the ‘Evolution of the Martini’ flight (£15) - three classic tipples served in mini glasses. You begin with the Martinez, the godfather of the Martini dating back to 1887, before moving on to The 1903, a smooth and silky creation with zesty orange undertones. Finally, the Perfect Ten, with subtle hints of grapefruit and chamomile. Thanks to the quadruple distilled Tanqueray, these slip down easily, with none of the harshness you get from inferior gins. Our only criticism? They could have been colder. The trolley is a lovely idea, but the spirits really need to be super-chilled.

If you’re hungry, Fifth Floor chef Jonas Karlsson has put together a brief menu of dishes inspired by the citrus and botanical notes of Tanqueray No. Ten. Snack on seasonal asparagus with sauce vierge or tuck into mini venison burgers or sautéed tiger prawns with citrus and ras el hanout. If you fancy something sweet, there’s rhubarb and apple crumble or a retro chocolate fondue with candied grapefruit and marshmallows.

If you’ve got guests to impress, you can book the plush white booth where up to 6 cocktail aficionados can share the ‘Ultimate Martini Experience’ - a private cocktail master class, 3-course dinner and Martini kit to take away, priced at £500. Not exactly a cheap thrill but well worth it.

The Tanqueray No. Ten Terrace is open until the end of July. It's proving popular in the warm weather, so book ahead by calling 020 7201 8786 or email novella.alessandrini@harveynichols.com.