Standing on the rain-soaked steps leading up to Centrepoint, we buzzed frantically to be let in. “I thought a members’ club would be more glamorous,” grumbled my colleague, sheltering under a soggy Evening Standard. Inside is much better, with a suitably glossy blonde to guide you to the lift and a dapper gent to meet you on the 32nd floor. The restaurant is open to the public now, which is why we’re here, but the bar remains off limits to non-members unless you’re booked in for dinner. Cocktails are good but pricey at around £11-13 each.
The décor – courtesy of Tom Dixon – does a good job of being invisible. There are dark wood tables and flattering lighting but at this altitude you should be looking out, not in. London’s skyline isn’t the prettiest but on a clear day Bloomsbury and beyond looks charming. If you’re clever or hoping to impress, go early or aim for sunset. (After dark, you risk looking at a reflection of yourself). “I’ve never had good food and a good view in the same place,” said my friend, remembering mediocre meals at similar view-led venues. At Paramount, however, we’re in safe hands with head chef Colin Layfield (ex-L’Odeon) and a refreshingly simple menu.
We got off to a good start with some good (warm) bread and an impressive twice-baked Roquefort soufflé, perched on fine slivers of pear and endive. While the beetroot cubes didn’t bring much to the party, the soufflé itself was a triumph - crisp on top, light and not overly cheesy within. Across the table, my companion had negotiated one of the mains as her starter - a vibrant green pea and truffle risotto. This was a stunner; the sweet peas and earthy truffles proved perfect partners and the rice was creamy but still retained some bite. If it weren’t for the intensity of truffle, this was a dish you could easily eat too much of.
Skipping over meatier options like the fillet of beef and pork three ways, we both chose fish. The sea bass was perfectly cooked, crisp skin giving way to flaky white flesh, but the frothy caviar cream was a little insipid. Throwing a luxury ingredient at a dish might work to justify the price, but if it doesn’t add flavour it’s best left in the kitchen. The accompanying samphire, gnocchi and a side of Chantenay carrots were tasty and well-seasoned.
My monkfish, three meaty chunks rolled in five spice, was served on another excellent risotto, this time flavoured with saffron, with three crab spring rolls standing guard nearby. This would have been an excellent dish, if it hadn’t been doused in what tasted like sweet chilli sauce, better suited to a Thai takeaway. This wasn’t listed on the menu and for good reason - it had no place on the plate, the sticky sweetness fighting the savoury spiced fish and delicately flavoured risotto. Gutted.
Things picked up again with dessert, thanks to a flawless crème brulee and a chocolate tasting plate that a fellow foodie had recommended as a must-try. This stylish celebration of Valhrona chocolate included a rich dark chocolate tart, similar to the Louis XV at Gauthier Soho; a crisp chocolate samosa on an intense berry puree; a white chocolate and pistachio mousse triangle; and a tiny chocolate fondant, perfectly molten in the middle. The same attention to detail shone through in the service, from the smartly suited manager to the waiter who recommended a rather good Viognier and maintained a discreet distance throughout, giving us time to chat and enjoy the view.
All things considered, we enjoyed Paramount. The slick service and highlights like the risotto and the desserts made it easy to overlook the occasional misses. As you’d expect at this altitude, it’s not cheap but it’s far from outrageous – perfect for entertaining clients or impressing a date before the theatre. Go for the view, take charming company and let the food be a pleasant surprise.
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