Dishoom: Fast Food With Soul At London's First Bombay Cafe

THE LOWDOWN: Inspired by the 'Bombay cafes' opened by Persian immigrants in what is now Mumbai, Dishoom is already a popular addition to St Martin’s Courtyard. Just a stones throw from Leicester Square, it’s sandwiched between Jamie’s Italian and Cantina Laredo and offers an all-day menu of Indian snacks.

THE LOOK: In an area dominated by faceless chains, Dishoom stands out as a seriously good-looking space. With its mix of dark wood, mirrors and monochrome floor tiles, it’s more Bombay brasserie than café and the colour scheme is a muted blend of greys, browns and pale blue. Designer Afroditi Krassa has injected plenty of personality with colourful Bollywood posters and low-hanging lighting but the main attraction is the busy open kitchen where smartly-attired chefs prepare roomali rotis to order. The attention to detail extends to the rather lovely toilets where there are quirky mirrors, incense and vintage medicine cabinets in each cubicle.

The only downside is that all those sleek hard surfaces create a lot of noise. In opening week, the place was predictably rammed and it was hard to make ourselves heard over the din. Great for groups and quick lunch stops, but not so good for cosy dinner dates. Another minor niggle is that the tables for two are very close together and quite small, so dishes have to be served afternoon tea style on tiered trays. The best seats are the more spacious black leather booths and the quieter downstairs area, which is due to open soon.

THE FOOD: We started with the house crisps which are zingy little triangles, more like filo than potato and completely grease-free so possibly baked rather than fried. We had fun trying to guess the seasoning - possibly amchoor (a citrusy dried mango powder)? Next came two similarly greaseless lamb samosas, packed full of well-seasoned spicy mince, and three excellent chutneys (sweet and tangy tamarind and date; cooling mint and coriander; and a fiery tomato salsa). Lamb sheekh kebabs laced with cumin were perked up by a squeeze of lime and deftly grilled chunk of tender murgh malai was a good alternative to the hotter chicken tikka.

Dishoom's signature roomali roti, made by stretching the thin dough over a dome, is lighter than naan and less dense than paratha - perfect for mopping up leftover sauces. I liked the dark, earthy house daal but my companion was less impressed, declaring it one dimensional. Perhaps a golden yellow tarka daal would be a worthy addition to the menu? Skipping small plates like desi fish fingers and chilli cheese toast, we ordered the curry of the day - lamb dahi-wala. The lamb was tender enough to cut with a spoon and the sauce was lightly spiced, creamy and tangy with yoghurt - close to a korma but not as insipid. It was tasty but pricey at £7.90 for a small bowlful. A very Western chocolate fondant seemed misplaced on the dessert menu; we preferred the mouth-puckering passion fruit and chilli granita and the Mini Milk-style kulfi on a stick.

The dishes arrives quickly, all at once - perfect if you’ve got limited time before the theatre but not ideal if you’re a slow eater or like to linger over your meal. As food blogger Chris Pople noted in his review, it can feel like a race to eat the dishes before they go cold. Next time, we’ll ask if they can stagger our order. The swift service is a plus at times though, especially if you’re only dropping in for a lunchtime roti or a bacon naan en route to work.

THE DRINKS: From the fragrant house chai to the creamy cooling lassis, drinkers at Dishoom are spoilt for choice. There’s a small but carefully compiled wine list and a couple of beers but the real winners are the cocktails - all priced under £6. The best of these are the St Martini, a smooth gin and pomegranate Martini with a subtle chilli kick, and the chaijito, a lightly spiced twist on the classic. Filtered water is available in Dishoom-branded bottles priced at £1, of which 20p goes to helping to provide clean water for Bombay slums.

THE VERDICT: Admittedly, it's early days but we've yet to hear a bad word said about Dishoom. The quality ingredients and low prices are a rarity in an area more familiar with the mediocrity of Bella Italia and Angus Steakhouses. On our visit, service was hyper-efficient and friendly, if a little over-rehearsed, but things should feel more relaxed in a month or so. The food, while tasty, might not blow your mind but it’s fresh, honest and they don’t skimp on the spice. With the Mexican next door failing to impress and the long waits for tables at Jamie’s Italian, Dishoom is currently your best bet in St Martin’s Courtyard. For lunch stops, pre-theatre feasts and curry-in-a-hurry, it’s definitely worth a place on your To Do list.

Comments

[mcgregor]

great decor , good atmosphere , ok but ultimately disappointing food. Don't believe the hype

[Mr.Foodie]

I liked it! It was nice to have the fun informal indian food... my parents particularly enjoyed it... which for me was a true test of how good the place is as being Indian, they know their indian food. Yep its not your usual indian food, but thats a good thing... the desi fish fingers were great! I think I'll have the keema pau next time!

[Sim]

Review spot on - we thoroughly enjoyed it - thanks for recommendation!

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Looks like the very delicious food. Spicy tasteful food would be serve in the western country.