City Eating

#BBQWhiskyBeer: Meat Sweats In W1

The Lowdown: Following the success of their West London pop-up last year, Sam and his #BBQWhiskyBeer team are currently ‘squatting’ (their words) at the Lord Wargrave, a handsome Young’s pub in Marylebone. They’re serving top notch burgers and BBQ classics like ribs, wings and pulled pork, while the bar handles the whisky and beer side of things.

The Food: The menu ticks all the 'dude food' boxes with bar snacks like ribs and Southern fried chicken livers sitting alongside man-sized burgers and fried chicken. The chicken wings we tried were that perfect mix of crisp skin and moist meat with a subtle lip-tingling after-burn from the buffalo-style sauce. The smoked baby back ribs are even better – the meat is tender enough to tear from the bones with your fingers but still has enough bite to keep things interesting. The whisky-soy glaze is excellent and gives them a gently boozy, sweet-salty stickiness. (Lose the parsley sprinkles though - nobody needs them).

Their classic burger can be pimped with stuff like oxtail chilli, pulled pork or beef short rib. The patties themselves have great flavour, though it’s easy to lose it under a pile of (admittedly delicious) pulled pig, cheese and creamy slaw. The pulled pork, which they smoke for 24 hours, is as good as I’ve had anywhere in London and that includes Pitt Cue. You can have it on its own in a brioche bun and it’s not drowned in BBQ sauce so the rich, smoky pork flavour shines through. Our only criticism lay with the chips which were nicely crisp but a little greasy.

The Drink: The beer list is a little underwhelming (as they’re tied to those which are Young’s approved) but the ales are very well kept. The real draw here is their incredible collection of whiskies which includes bottles from all over the UK as well as America and Japan. This low-key pub off Edgware Road has the largest selection of single malts in London – who knew? They offer tasting flights on Saturday evenings and the #BBQWhiskyBeer team organise regular tasting evenings, so keep an eye on their twitter feed for dates.

The Verdict: If you’re looking for an American-influenced pop-up that puts substance before style, this could be the one. From a small open kitchen at the end of the bar, they’re working hard to deliver upscale BBQ and junk food classics. Portions are generous, prices are low and when the meat sweats kick in, you can sit back and chill with a whisky. If you’re local, we highly recommend popping in at lunch when a man-sized main and a drink will only set you back a tenner.

Roti Chai: West End Style & Spice

THE LOWDOWN: Tucked away between Bond Street and Marble Arch, Roti Chai is a slick new venture from former Cinnamon Club MD, Rohit Chugh. On the ground floor, the laid-back Street Kitchen serves up authentic Indian street snacks, while the downstairs dining room is a more formal affair with a menu of regional specialties designed for sharing. When we visited on a bitterly cold December evening, the warmth and buzz of the subterranean dining room was a welcome respite from the chaos of pre-Christmas Oxford Street. As you descend the stairs and inhale the scent of freshly toasted spice, you can tell you’re in for something rather special.

THE LOOK: While the modern, minimalist Street Kitchen is perfect for lunchtime pitstops, the soft lighting, mirrors and sunset colours make the downstairs dining room a welcoming space for those who like to linger over dinner. In a nod to India’s most famous form of transport, there are luggage racks above the tables for two and train-inspired banquette seating. Quirky caged lanterns are suspended from the industrial ceiling and the larger round tables are perfect for groups who want to share their dishes tapas-style. At one end of the room there’s a well-stocked bar, and at the other there’s a smoked red glass window through which you can glimpse the kitchen.

THE FOOD: Downstairs, the menu is a mix of street food snacks, larger dishes from the various regions of India, and regularly changing specials which on our visit included winter game. Start by sharing small plates like crunchy papri chaat, seekh kebabs hot from the tandoor, tender spice-rubbed ribs, or the Chennai favourite Chicken 65. Roti Chai’s version is a rather polite interpretation of the original, but delicious nonetheless, the fried chicken strips encased in a feisty batter and begging to be dunked in the fresh tomato salsa. A surprise stand-out was the aloo tikki (potato cakes) served with homely chickpea curry, finely diced red onion, yoghurt, mint and tangy tamarind chutney – each mouthful a different explosion of flavours.

From the list of larger plates, we chose Chettinad chicken – a rustic dish from Tamil Nadu, redolent of earthy roasted spices – and an impressive bread selection that was big enough for three or more to share. Wrapped in linen to keep them warm, the basket contained fresh hot paratha, light buttery naan, and, best of all, triangles of veg-stuffed kulcha. With bread this good, you can skip rice and have more room for comforting dhal or Cochin-style seasonal greens with coconut.

Now, korma has a bad rep in the UK for being the curry equivalent of beige but our Awadhi lamb version was delicious, let down only by chunks of lamb that weren’t quite melt-in-the-mouth tender. The sauce, though, was mild but full of flavour, fragrant with saffron, and so addictive that we were mopping it up with naan long after declaring ourselves full.

After the main event, balance the spice with something sweet like chai brulée, chocolate and cardamom tart, or payasam – a creamy South Indian dessert. If you can only manage a few bites, go for the mango or pistachio kulfi - there’s always room for ice-cream on sticks.

THE DRINKS: Roti Chai’s drinks list offers carefully chosen wines, Mongoose beer (a welcome change from Tiger), and Amrut whisky amongst other top shelf spirits. Cocktails tend towards to the exotic, with the ginger and pineapple Bellini proving more popular than an overly perfumed rose and lychee Martini. (The latter packed a punch but didn’t feel quite right in a chunky glass tumbler.) After dinner, try the masala chai – their authentic take on the sweet Indian tea spiked with cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. It’s wonderfully warming and great for digestion!

THE REST: A special mention goes to the friendly, clued-up staff. Throughout the evening, our empty glasses were whipped from the table ninja-style, and they were always nearby but never intrusive. Our Canadian waiter, William, admitted to being new but talked us confidently through the menu, pointing out his favourites, and even identified a mystery vegetable in our korma.

THE VERDICT: With its cleverly distinct dining areas, Roti Chai is on to a winner. The laid-back Street Kitchen is perfect for lunch or a post-shopping refuel, while downstairs is sleek and stylish enough to entice the dolled-up West End crowd. The food is fresh and vibrant, full of authentic flavours, and we were thrilled to discover there’s nothing timid about the spicing. Downstairs, the prices can feel a little steep – that lamb dish, for example, is £16.80 – but the quality of the food (and the service) more than justifies them. If you like the vibe at Dishoom and the food at Delhi Grill, you’re guaranteed to have a good time here.

Cafe Rouge: It’s All Change At This French Family Favourite

THE LOWDOWN: For over 20 years, Café Rouge has been serving up classic French dishes in laid-back bistros on high streets across the UK. Last month, they launched a new menu which includes traditional Gallic dishes like bouillabaisse, saucisses de Toulouse and coq au vin, alongside some healthy options which are all under 600 calories. There’s also a selection of ‘petit plats’ which follow the current trend for tapas-sized dishes you can share. Now they’re looking at how they can improve their restaurants, starting with a new restaurant just off The Strand in Covent Garden. We have fond memories of childhood trips to Café Rouge so we popped in for an early dinner to see how things have changed.

THE LOOK: The new Café Rouge is situated on Villiers Street, just off The Strand and   right next to Charing Cross Station and Trafalgar Square. It’s just up the road from Lupita and Herman Ze German and with its  bright red frontage, it’s hard to miss. Inside, there’s the familiar mix of red banquettes, colourful murals and faux French posters, as well as a smart bar you can perch at. It doesn’t look like any bistro we’ve been to in Paris but it’s warm and cosy in the candlelight and it was already buzzing when we arrived for a mid-week supper.

THE FOOD: The new menu is tricky to navigate but covers all the bases with everything from ‘plats rapides’ for the lunch crowd to heartier mains and set menus for evening diners. We liked the idea of the ‘petit plats’ which are just £3 each and include things like tapenade d’artichaut, rillettes de canard and tasty little Merguez sausages with harissa mayo. If you fancy a full-sized starter, you can tuck into onion soup, moules marinières or crevettes à l’ail – a messy but moreish dish of prawns in chilli and garlic butter.

Locals are well catered for at lunchtime with salads, tartines and baguettes, while those with larger appetites can enjoy sizeable steaks, confit de canard and boeuf bourguignon. We liked the signature ‘Steak Rouge’ – a well-cooked rib-eye served with hot, salty frites – and the sole limande, which was tasty in spite of the absence of the advertised caramelised lemon butter. For dessert, as you’d expect, there are tartes, coupes and crème brulee.

THE DRINK: The wine list should offer something to please most palates and prices are very reasonable with the house wines starting at £3.70 for a small glass. We liked the fruity Syrah Rosé much better than an overly sweet Kir Royale from the aperitifs menu.

THE VERDICT: While our meal at Café Rouge wasn’t without its flaws, we enjoyed the laid-back buzz, our delicious starters and the attentive service from our young French waiter. While the new restaurant on The Strand will undoubtedly do well with the tourists, it may also win over locals and theatre-goers with its set lunch menu and ‘menu du soir’, which offers 2 courses for £10.50. There’s even a no-nonsense kids menu for your little gourmets. For a relaxed, reasonably priced meal in Covent Garden, it’s definitely worth a try.

Chiswell Street Dining Rooms: Laid-Back Luxe

THE LOWDOWN: Ed and Tom Martin (The Gun, The Botanist, amongst others) have opened a modern British restaurant and bar on the former site of the Whitbread Brewery. Situated close to the Barbican Centre where there is little competition on the food front, the Chiswell Street Dining Rooms have been buzzing since they opened their doors earlier this month. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a bar menu and afternoon tea to plug the gaps in between. Tea fans can opt for the classic Champagne affair, a Gentleman’s version and a healthy Tea-Tox, complete with crudités, smoked salmon and bran muffins. The restaurant is also part of the new Montcalm London City Hotel so if you get lost on your way back from the toilets (as we did), you may find yourself in a conference room or passing some rather plush bedrooms.

THE LOOK: From the smart dark green frontage to the light and airy dining rooms, it’s all very slick, very City, but rather nice. The first room is dominated by a handsome chestnut-topped bar and has the same buzz as the Martin brothers’ Chelsea eatery, only with less Sloanes and more suits. Like The Botanist, the new venue suffers from some acoustic issues with diners struggling to hear each other over the din. (An unfortunate side effect of all those hard surfaces and a busy bar full of rowdy after-work drinkers).

  

The wood-panelled dining rooms are reminiscent of a modern day drawing room, complete with pale green tub chairs, inoffensive artworks and spiky little plants on each table. Thanks to large windows and an understated colour palette of greens, cream and gold, it feels bright and relaxed – ideal for lunch or early suppers. It feels plush but not pretentious and the service is suitably slick, with attentive and neatly attired waiters moving unnoticed between the tables. We were particularly impressed by our waiter, Alex, who knew the menu inside out, never let a glass sit empty and bid us a cheerful farewell at the end of the evening.

THE FOOD: Head chef Richard O’Connell (ex-One Aldwych, The Groucho Club) has put together an appealing, if safe, menu of modern British dishes. It’s heavy on luxury ingredients like foie gras and fresh seafood but there’s nothing that will shock the business lunch crowd. After demolishing the warm miniature loaf they serve in place of a bread basket, we shared the potted ham hock and king scallops. The former – coarsely shredded pork and gherkins packed into a cutesy kilner jar – was good (and mercifully served at room temp), but not as impressive as the plump and perfectly caramelised scallops served with asparagus-like samphire and a rich creamy sauce infused with lemon thyme. Had we not been in polite company, we would have happily licked the shells clean.

Mains range from elegant fish dishes and seasonal salads to man-sized platefuls of pork, steak and West Devon lamb. Don’t miss the signature dish of stuffed Middlewhite pork loin served with roasted Braeburn apple, cabbage and Clonakilty black and white pudding. This is a great dish for two to share and the only complaint from my companion was that he would have liked a little more of the excellent jus. My Scottish lobster and prawn risotto was flawless, given colour and flavour by (I assume) a first class bisque and studded with morsels of sweet lobster meat. It’s a generous portion, perhaps too rich for some, but seafood risotto fans will love this deliciously decadent dish.

  

Save room for desserts like tart tatin for two; a wonderfully light and moist sticky toffee pudding; or a rich Valrhona chocolate tart. There are summery coupes and sundaes, if you’re feeling a bit retro, and the cheeseboards heading for the bar looked impressive and generously stocked. At the end of our meal, we had only minor complaints - more sauce with the pork, more crème fraiche with the tart - but overall we couldn’t fault any of it. The dishes are well-executed and tasteful - like the decor - but also hearty and full of flavour.

THE DRINKS: We’ve never been disappointed by an ETM wine list and the leather-bound bottle bible at Chiswell Street was no exception. Spread over 15 pages, there’s something to suit most tastes and budgets, including lunch-friendly half bottles and some excellent by-the-glass options starting at £4.10. The house wines, which are produced in the Languedoc region under the watchful eye of Ed and Tom, are particularly good. In a nod to the building’s heritage, there are top quality British beers on offer, like Dark Star Sunburst and St Austell Clouded Yellow. Cocktails, priced around the £8 mark, have a distinctly British flavour thanks to ingredients like homemade sloe gin, rhubarb liqueur and apple brandy. We liked the gin-based Clover Club, flushed pink with their homemade raspberry syrup, and the surprisingly good Pomona Fizz mocktail – a refreshing mix of pomegranate, pear, honey, lime and tonic.

THE VERDICT: The Chiswell Street Dining Rooms are a welcome addition to what was previously a gastronomic wasteland between Old Street and Moorgate. Whether you’re entertaining clients or just treating yourself to breakfast, you’re guaranteed to be impressed by the elegant rooms, the flawless food and the friendly, clued-up staff. In the City, you rarely find all three of these things in one venue so it’s worth betting that both restaurant and bar will be very popular with the locals. Of course, it’s loud and not exactly cheap but if you’re happy to pay a bit extra for quality, you won’t be disappointed. We’ll definitely be back to try out the bar menu.

Red Dog Saloon: Beer And BBQ Arrives in Hoxton

THE LOWDOWN: Recently opened on Hoxton Square, Red Dog Saloon is the brainchild of Tom Berk, a former restaurant and events manager and BBQ enthusiast. He hopes to bring the flavour of Deep South barbecue to London and has imported an award-winning smoker from the USA. It’s built to recreate the cooking process of the original fire pits and uses traditional American wood (hickory and mesquite) for that authentic smokiness. The meat can stay in the smoker for up to 16 hours, cooking ‘low and slow’ for maximum flavour.

THE LOOK: Split over two floors, the restaurant is inspired by America’s ‘great ranch-style dining rooms’ so expect lots of dark wood, cracked leather banquettes and shuttered windows. Ceiling fans spin slowly overhead and the walls are covered in buffalo skulls, longhorns and framed photos of railways and rodeos. It’s Americana by numbers, a little bit Disney, but it’s as tasteful as you can manage with this theme and it already looks like somewhere you could roll out across London. It feels like it would do very well in Covent Garden or Westfield, if that doesn’t sound too damning. We liked the relaxed diner vibe and the sunny terrace overlooking the square, which was already proving popular with hungry Hoxtonites.

THE FOOD: On our visit, the menu was a stripped-back version of the one on their website, suggesting that the kitchen is still finding its feet. Their smoker proved troublesome during the soft opening and the menu is still heavy on the burgers while it’s bedding in. That said, on our visit BBQ trumped burger and we were more than happy with our basket of buffalo wings. Messy, sticky and drenched in Frank’s legendary hot sauce, they were just crispy enough on the outside and still moist and tender inside. The blue cheese dip was salty but a good match to the fiery wings. Better still were the sizeable St Louis pork ribs which had clearly benefited from their time in the smoker. Spice rubbed and then cooked ‘low and slow’, the meat was juicy and easily stripped from the bone, though we would have liked more smokiness. The accompanying BBQ beans were good too – sweet, spicy and with some pork stirred in for good measure.

The burgers are ground fresh every day from chuck steak and served medium-rare unless you say otherwise. They’re also relatively cheap by London standards – all under £10. We split ‘the Punisher’ – a 5oz patty topped with pulled pork, streaky bacon and American cheese. The meat is great quality and the bun soft, sweet and not overly floury, but the pulled pork was a letdown. Compared to the superior version at Pitt Cue Co (under Hungerford Bridge), Red Dog’s shredded pig was a little soggy and lacking in flavour. It made for a pretty mushy mouthful overall but with a little practice on the pork front, this could be a great burger.

THE DRINKS: Red Dog’s drinks menu boasts some very reasonable wines by the glass, a decent range of American beers, and milkshakes made with Maryland’s Y3K ice-cream. (These are very good, full of chocolate bits and other goodies to clog up your straw, but a little thin). Camden Brewery lager and pale ale should be available on tap soon. There’s no cocktail or spirit list yet but they’re happy to whip up classic drinks and our waitress was happy to rattle off the names of some very good bourbons for us. In the absence of ginger beer for a Dark & Stormy, the bartender shook up a Lord Nelson – equal measures of dark rum, apple juice and Ice Tea.

THE VERDICT: It’s still early days at the Red Dog Saloon but we can definitely see potential. London is crying out for good BBQ and once they get the hang of the smoker, this place could really clean up. The wings and ribs are already worth crossing town for but they’ll need to keep their burger standards high to compete with the busy new Byron opposite. We loved the friendly clued-up service – full marks to the lovely Hannah for keeping us supplied with wet wipes – and the food was fresh, tasty and wallet-friendly. Things can only get better. Maybe, like great BBQ, it’s just a matter of time.

Cay Tre Soho: An East End Favourite Charms The West End

THE LOWDOWN: In May, Vietnamese restaurateur Hieu Trung Bui opened Cây Tre Soho – a Dean Street sister site to the Old Street original. (His empire also includes Viet Grill on Kingsland Road and busy banh mi cafe, Keu!) The East End Cây Tre has always been a hit with locals and foodies in the know, and the Soho branch opened to glowing reviews from TimeOut and London food bloggers like Greedy Diva and London Eater. Vietnamese has always been an under-represented cuisine in Soho and Hieu Trung Bui’s slick new eatery looks set to fill that gap. Only Pho and Viet offer any competition and they are both more casual and better suited to lunch, while Cây Tre is smart enough for dinner and dates.

THE LOOK: The modern, monochrome restaurant is a far cry from the low-key Dalston cafes and it has clearly been designed with well-dressed West Enders in mind. The white-washed wood panelling, clean lines and black and white furniture create a light and airy space, without feeling cold or clinical. The only splashes of colour come from the low-hanging lights and the exotic flowers and bottles of fiery Sriracha chilli sauce on each table. It still has a faint ‘noodle bar’ feel to it, not really somewhere you’d linger for hours, but this combined with speedy service and its proximity to Shaftesbury Avenue make it an ideal pre-theatre stop.

   

THE FOOD: The menu is shorter than the lengthy lists you see in Kingsland Road cafes, but familiar favourites like prawn-packed summer rolls, refreshing salads and - of course - pho are all present and correct. There are some unusual additions like the Indochine stir-fried venison and slow-cooked ‘ox cheek au vin’, alongside authentic Vietnamese dishes like sesame-cured beef and green papaya salad and the Dong Du lamb chop curry, which originates from the oldest Indian mosque in Saigon. During the day, Soho locals can drop in to slurp noodles at the Pho Bar and tuck into wallet-friendly express lunches.

Having enjoyed the banh xeo (pork and prawn stuffed pancake) at VyNam Café, we ordered the same here but what arrived was more like a crispy fritter of shredded sweet potato and plump prawn. It was tasty, especially when dunked into the feisty nuoc mam sauce, but it was over-fried and not really what we were expecting. The pork ribs were much better – tender, meaty and sticky with their fragrant honey and lemongrass marinade. We also liked the Mekong catfish - slow-cooked on-the-bone fish simmered in a sweet-savoury caramel sauce that is unique to Vietnamese cuisine - but the Lang Son roast Tamworth pork belly was disappointing. The slices of prime pig were topped with good crackling but underneath the meat was grey and greasy, not helped by an overwhelming dipping sauce. Perhaps we were just unlucky because the fresh salads and huge bowls of steaming pho arriving at neighbouring tables looked and smelled great.

THE DRINK: Cây Tre’s wine list was put together with help from wine writer Malcolm Gluck, so you can be assured of finding a decent bottle or two. Their website claims they ‘shake Vietnamese cocktails by night’ but our waitress denied all knowledge so we stuck to fruit juice and zingy Fentiman’s lemonade. From noon until 5.30pm, the restaurant serves ‘Vietnamese afternoon tea’, accompanied by tea from the Rare Tea Company.

THE VERDICT: Cây Tre is a welcome addition to Vietnamese-starved Soho and we loved the friendly service and the restaurant’s laid-back good looks. It’s open all day so you can pop in for an impromptu pho fix and the lunch deal of ‘one big bowl, one small plate’ for £14 is a W1 bargain. The a la carte prices are a little higher than at the Hoxton original but for Soho, they’re pretty reasonable. We’ll definitely be back to try their pho.

Tapas Brindisa Brings The Buzz Of Barcelona To Soho

THE LOWDOWN: The Brindisa group have relaunched their Soho restaurant, formerly Tierra Brindisa, as a smaller version of their thriving Borough Market tapas bar. It’s a smart move, given London’s current appetite for ‘small plates’. Monika Linton, co-founder of Brindisa, explained, ‘An offering more akin to what we do in London Bridge is more aligned to how people are now dining in Soho. With the rise in popularity of informal bar-eating, now seemed the time to do what we do best and reflect the style of how people eat in Spain.’

THE LOOK: Smaller and more intimate than the Borough Market original, the Soho branch was already buzzing on our early evening visit. At the front of the restaurant, diners can perch at the bar and lean-on ledges or spread themselves over larger tables which allow more room for the inevitable sharing of dishes. With dark wood, clean lines and blood red walls, the designers have created a space that is modern and suitably Soho, but with all the warmth and noise of a Barcelona tapas bar.

 

The best seats in the house are at the back where you can sit at the bar under the skylight and watch the chefs at work. This is especially useful for indecisive diners because you can watch the dishes being prepped for other tables and pick out the best looking ones for yourself. (Neat freaks may also find the gleaming stainless steel surfaces and meticulously tidy chefs rather comforting).

THE FOOD: Brindisa fans will be glad to see some familiar favourites on the menu, alongside daily specials and their impeccably sourced hams and artisan cheeses. New to the Soho branch is a ‘picoteo’ snack menu (Spanish nibbles you can enjoy with a drink at the bar) and the ‘parilla’ menu of grilled meats like Iberian pork shoulder, lemon chicken skewers and lamb marinated in cumin and rosemary. Another new addition is their hand-made ‘pan de coca’ – a Catalian flatbread served with crushed tomatoes.

Start with charcuterie like the cured Catalan sausage or hand-carved Iberico de Bellota ham, which is pricey at £22 but worth it for that melt-in-the-mouth porkiness. Pair it with cheese like the mild Manchego served with membrillo (a sweet and fruity quince paste). Then maybe a few slices of freshly grilled ‘country’ bread, best eaten hot and smeared with their rich yellow alioli, dusted with paprika and pungent with garlic.

 

We loved the deftly fried croquetas, which split open to reveal a creamy jamon-flecked centre, and the fiery grilled chorizo on toast. The lunchtime queues at their Borough Market stall are a testament to this deliciously simple combination of spicy chorizo, sweet roasted red pepper and peppery rocket. When our last dish arrived, we were already full but couldn’t resist the gambas al ajillo, still sizzling angrily in their terracotta dish. The plump prawns were fresh, sweet and hot from the chilli and we mopped up the garlicky juices with the last of our bread.

Tapas for two is easy to order, with most dishes large enough to share, but to really do justice to the menu you’ll need a larger group or a very healthy appetite. A quick poll of our twitter followers revealed some must-try dishes for our next visit - Galician style octopus; wilted Catalan spinach with pine nuts and raisins; and the deep-fried Monte Enebro goat’s cheese with orange blossom honey and crispy beetroot.

THE DRINK: Tapas Brindisa’s wine list covers most Spanish regions with something to suit most palates and glasses starting at just £3.95. We liked their fresh and fruity Mas Macia Cava (£5.95 per glass) and a Polpo-style tumbler of smooth Al Laxas albariño. There are a few sweet wines to pair with dessert but only a handful of sherries, so if that’s your poison you’re best off heading to Pepito, José or Capote y Toros.

THE VERDICT: We liked the more formal Tierra Brindisa but the new look and easy-to-share menu are a much better fit for Soho. The restaurant feels warm, comfortably and buzzy as soon as you step inside and the food is fresh, simple and tasty – just like good tapas should be. It might not drag London’s hardcore tapas fans away from Barrafina or newcomer José but it’s a great place to have on your go-to list. The central Soho location makes it a prime post-work and pre-theatre spot, not to mention an ideal escape from Oxford Street.

Snap Of The Week: VyNam Cafe, Finchley

In the past, we’ve had to travel to Shoreditch, Surrey Quays and beyond for a Vietnamese food fix so we were delighted to hear about this low-key cafe near Finchley Central. It’s on a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it parade of shops in an area not exactly known for great places to eat, so it’s great news for locals and even better news for us. We turned up expecting a no-frills Kingsland Road style cafe but in reality it’s a ‘proper’ restaurant with a clean and bright interior decked out with flowers. (Smart enough for parents or a second or third date).

The list of starters includes Viet classics like fresh summer rolls, chargrilled quail with honey and garlic; and soft shell crab. There’s grilled goat and pan-fried frogs legs if you’re feeling adventurous, and crispy aromatic duck with pancakes if you’re not. We ordered the salt and pepper prawns, lightly battered and tossed with plenty of fiery red chilli, shredded spring onion and garlic. The prawns had been neatly butterflied and deveined but, inexplicably, not de-shelled so that if you wanted to eat the batter you also had to eat shards of crunchy pink shell. Thankfully, the prawns themselves were fresh and sweet – the heat from the chilli balanced by slices of crisp cucumber and lightly pickled carrots. On a second visit, we tried the banh xeo – a a crispy pancake stuffed with pork, prawns and bean sprouts – which was a delicious street food style dish, easily big enough to share.

According to the TimeOut review, VyNam Cafe’s pho is ‘spot on’ and we’ve heard good things about the fish dishes like crispy sea bass with fish sauce and shredded mango and the traditional catfish with turmeric and dill. Our clay pot chicken arrived still bubbling and fragrant with fresh lemongrass. We devoured the tender strips of chicken and crunchy peppers and then ladled the creamy coconut sauce on to the remains of our special fried rice, studded with chopped prawns and Vietnamese sausage. A sizzling dish of not-very-Vietnamese beef with black bean sauce was equally tasty and we liked our side of stir-fried morning glory laced with plenty of garlic.

The dishes here might not be as authentic as they are at cafes on the Pho Mile but everything we tried was delicious, beautifully presented and full of fresh, flavoursome ingredients. The service was friendly and attentive, with the staff packing up our leftovers without us asking and fashioning make-shift kid-friendly chopsticks for a toddler at a neighbouring table. Still not convinced? Check out the reviews from Kavey and Aki Eats.

At the moment, they’re offering 20% discount at lunchtime, 10% when you collect a takeaway, and free delivery over £15 within a three mile radius. That said, the prices are so reasonable that it’s worth making a night of it and taking a few friends so you can really give the menu a work out.

The Jam Tree (Chelsea): Colonial Flavours To Cross Town For

THE LOWDOWN: Situated at the Fulham end of the King’s Road, The Jam Tree is the latest venture from the team that opened the original in Kensington last year. The owners – Sam O’Riordan, Yann Roberts and Ashley Letchford – have an impressive collective CV, having worked with bars and clubs like Pacha, Aquum and Gigalum. Like the Kensington site, the Chelsea Jam Tree is a relaxed gastropub with quirky good looks and an international menu, with the added bonus of a late license and a sunny garden. In the summer, the outdoor area will have its own bar and a barbeque serving marinated meats, burgers, and Asian and Caribbean street food.

THE LOOK: Following the current trend for all things ‘rescued’, the bar-dining room features mismatched vintage chairs, comfy Chesterfields, salvaged tables and a handsome copper-topped bar. It’s quirky without trying too hard and feels light and airy thanks to the high ceiling and large windows. The walls are home to antique mirrors, personalised artworks and colourful jam pot portraits. We liked the understated tree-themed wallpaper and little details like the scrabble tile signs which show you the way to the garden.

  

THE FOOD: The menu is a mix of Brit pub staples (steak, pie, burger) and dishes inspired by the flavours of Malaysia, Jamaica and beyond. Don’t be tempted to play it safe though because some of the best dishes we tried were the Asian-inspired offerings. To start, there’s a rustic duck and pork terrine with wonderfully sticky red onion chutney; a perfectly poached egg with asparagus and rich truffled Hollandaise; and a fragrant Malaysian laksa with a formidable chilli kick. Lightly spiced crab samosas with cooling raita were much better than the ones we tried at their sister site, but the winning dish was the crispy belly pork. We fought over the crackling-topped cubes of tender pig and the spicy aubergine sambal beneath, leaving nothing but a few strands of coriander cress. There are no fusion misfires here – just great flavours and ingredients that sit well together.

The reassuringly short list of mains includes cod and prawn fishcakes; Jamaican chicken curry; and a goat’s cheese and red onion marmalade tart. My dish of seared scallops was delicious – the sweet scallops just gently caramelised and the crisp croquettes filled with creamy truffle-scented mash. My only complaint was that the wild garlic cream sauce was a little salty and there were perhaps too many of the pungent green leaves tangled in amongst the samphire. Across the table, my guest enjoyed slices of impossibly tender lamb rump with minted Jersey Royals and a flavour-rich red wine sauce – a generous plateful for just £14.50. Most mains are priced around the £12 mark which is excellent value for cooking of this standard and puts a lot of London gastropubs to shame. We rounded things off with a gooey pecan-studded brownie and a comforting Brit classic – jam roly poly, served with top quality ice-cream and vanilla custard.

DON’T MISS: The highlight of the drinks list is the range of Jam Cocktails, which use artisan conserves instead of (often synthetic-tasting) flavoured syrups. Try the signature Jam Mojito – a blend of strawberry, raspberry or blackcurrant jam with rum, ice and mint. (£8.50)

THE VERDICT: We crossed town hoping that The Jam Tree Chelsea would be as good as it’s Kensington sister. If anything, it was better. Executive chef James Browne has put together a menu full of bold flavours that may remind wealthy young locals of their gap year travels, but without scaring their parents. The kitchen turns out tasty, seasonal and beautifully presented dishes with refreshingly reasonable priced tags and the bar is worth a visit even if you’re not eating. With the added bonus of friendly staff and a relaxed vibe, it’s as suitable for lunch with your mum as it is for a Saturday session. Locals should count themselves very lucky indeed.

Corrigan’s Mayfair: Flawless Food With Irish Soul

With St Patrick’s Day fast approaching, we celebrated early with a visit to Corrigan’s Mayfair – the culinary home of celebrated Irish chef Richard Corrigan. This week the restaurant is celebrating with a lunchtime Market Menu (£27 for 3 courses) and daily Irish specials like braised collar of bacon; Irish stew; and Frank Hederman’s legendary smoked salmon with blinis and crème fraiche.

While Frank’s salmon was tempting, I chose to start with the lobster ravioli – a plump pasta pillow filled with sweet chunks of lobster and topped with buttered leeks. An ‘extra’ piece of pink-white lobster meat was delicious, if a little tough, but the real star was the rich and buttery sauce Americaine. Made with lobster stock, cayenne pepper and a little cream, amongst other things, it’s a classic French sauce that works beautifully with shellfish and here it added an extra layer of decadence to an already exceptional dish. Across the table, my guest was equally happy with his crispy duck egg and had swiped the last slice of soda bread to mop up the perfect golden yolk and tangy mustard hollandaise.

On our Monday evening visit, the lovely long bar was empty but the dining room was almost full with smart suits outnumbering a few elegantly attired ladies. It’s a comfortably glamorous space, handsome and understated, with metallic panels, blue banquettes and flattering lighting. It feels masculine, like the menu, and we liked the hunting-themed flourishes like the feathered lamps with little duck feet. There’s no music, just the hum of contented diners, and it feels warmer and less formal than expected. You could happily spend hours here.

One of the day’s specials, the Irish stew, was presented to me in its little black pot, only to be whipped away again to be plated tableside, one perfect carrot at a time. Traditionally a peasant dish made with mutton, Corrigan’s version was a far cry from the murky potato-heavy stew I ate in Belfast last year. The generous hunks of impossibly tender lamb collapsed under the weight of my fork, while the carrots retained their bite and the tiny pearl onions added a welcome sweetness. The broth, though paler than expected, was suitably refined but full of bold, comforting flavours. With a side of chive mash, whipped into buttery submission, it was a portion better suited to someone twice my size, but it was soon defeated with a little help from my guest. (He had already devoured, without help, a beautiful plate of ruby red loin of venison and crispy haunch as well as a creamy potato and celeriac gratin with a delicious crunchy topping.)

We sat back, a little overwhelmed by the richness of it all. There's plenty of butter at work here. When dessert arrived, it was all too much. The textures of chocolate, recommended by our charming waiter, was a work of edible art but needed something to cut through the chocolate intensity – a fruity sorbet or coulis perhaps. The pear and lime pannacotta was better with a refreshingly delicate flavour but served in a Martini glass so that after one spoonful, the previously distinct layers collapsed into an unappealing mess.

After months of checking out the latest ‘small plate’ hot spots, Corrigan’s was a welcome return to the traditional. The menu reflects Richard’s passion for gutsy British food and wild, seasonal ingredients; while head chef Chris McGowan and his team ensure each dish is full of flavour; refined but unpretentious. The service, too, was wonderful – attentive but never overbearing – and the sommelier’s recommendations, which included an intensely aromatic Albariño to accompany my ravioli, were spot on. Expect a flawless meal with a hefty Park Lane price tag, or go at lunchtime when the set menu offers one of Mayfair’s best bargains.

This is excellent, no-nonsense cooking that combines West End finesse with Irish generosity in one of London’s smartest postcodes. You won’t be disappointed.

(The Market Menu - £27 for 3 courses - and daily  Irish specials are available until the end of the week).